Thinking about making your own PC boards?
DosManDan
Posts: 179
OK, I like to give credit where credit is due. Now days, I'm so use to buying things that don't work, that when I find a product that does work, I'm surprised.
I needed to get a prototype for a project done quick which meant sending it out wasn't going to work. I had bought a product previously (and not·used it)·and decided to give it a try. I must say, it did a fantastic job and worked as advertized. It uses your laser printer and a cheap GBC laminator to make the toner transfer.
I know the site says you can make the PC board in 15 minutes, but if you are like me and have two left thumbs, it will take about 1/2 hour. I've included photos of the project, which I think came out great!
The lighting makes some bright spots on the solder joints and makes them look funny, but they really look normal.
The product I used was from: http://www.directetch.com/
Anyway, I hope if someone has been thinking about making their own PCB, this might give you something to try. It's also a good way to make sure·your design works before you send it out to Express PCB or some other commercial place.
Dan
I needed to get a prototype for a project done quick which meant sending it out wasn't going to work. I had bought a product previously (and not·used it)·and decided to give it a try. I must say, it did a fantastic job and worked as advertized. It uses your laser printer and a cheap GBC laminator to make the toner transfer.
I know the site says you can make the PC board in 15 minutes, but if you are like me and have two left thumbs, it will take about 1/2 hour. I've included photos of the project, which I think came out great!
The lighting makes some bright spots on the solder joints and makes them look funny, but they really look normal.
The product I used was from: http://www.directetch.com/
Anyway, I hope if someone has been thinking about making their own PCB, this might give you something to try. It's also a good way to make sure·your design works before you send it out to Express PCB or some other commercial place.
Dan
Comments
Did you have any problems with lining up both sides of the board?
Lining both sides up was real easy. I didn't do the parts outline and markings (white lettering)·until after the holes were drilled. I simply held it up to a bright light, lined up the holes, put a piece of tape on it and stuck it in the laminator. Came out perfect.
Definitely going to try using SMD next time now that I know I can make the boards easily. SMD would have knocked the number of holes down to about 45.
The real important thing is, I had the part ready for the customer the next morning. He was flying down to LA to meet with a financer. As usual, he had a few last minute enhancements that wouldn't have been possible if I had to send it out.
Thanks!
Dan
Post Edited (DosManDan) : 8/22/2008 5:21:23 PM GMT
what's a "GBC" laminator?
cheers,
Howard
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Buzz Whirr Click Repeat
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/PCB/a_Pages/4_Products/4d_Toner_Applicator/Toner_Applicator.html
Smile!
Dan
You should try this kit, it does a great job. I've tried most of the other ways out there to make a board, and this is the way to go. I can do traces at .01 all the way down to .006 and still not have a problem. The board I put in the pic has .01 traces with a copper pour clearance of .025 (gives me a little room to solder). Using the laminator is a definite improvement over an iron. Two passes through and I'm done.
The special paper this kit has actually separates cleanly from the board by just dropping it in water for 30 seconds. The kit also seals the toner and then you are ready to etch (etching takes about 2 to 3 minutes). Then, off to the drill press.
One thing I forgot to mention was that after I made the first board, I discovered an oscillation problem with the design that didn't show up in development. Had I actually sent this out to be done, I'd be sitting here with boards that don't work.
Thankfully, I corrected the problem, made another board; which is the one you see in the pictures. The kit actually paid for itself by allowing me to test the design before sending it out. I figure I saved two orders to PC Express at $51 each. And now I KNOW the design will work before I send it out.
Dan
Post Edited (DosManDan) : 8/23/2008 7:41:56 AM GMT
If you ever want to go to production, try Eagle software with Gerber files. You can get very good boards made cheaply in China in small runs. I had 25 made and they are all perfect. Sparkfun uses a Chinese firm for their PCB board orders and the prices are very close to what I pay direct order from Taiwan to China. You can pay via PayPal.
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It's sunny and warm here. It is always sunny and warm here.... (unless a typhoon blows through).
Tropically, G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse] 黃鶴 ] in Taiwan
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
I was using a cheap small drill from Jameco. It works well, could be improved by adding a little weight to the head to keep it from deflecting.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=26702&
You need both the drill and stand ~ $60 total. I have a regular drill press, but the jaws can't hold a small drill bit.
Dan
Leon
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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
Thanks!
Dan
I got an old HP-4M but I cannot get the right sized plots. I have·tried several cheap PCB programs to no avail.
In www.pulsarprofx.com I read that HP-4M is one of the recommended printers :-(
I was using an HP 4M before I changed to a newer HP Color Printer. Since I just used the 4M, I know that it should work.
The software I am using is the free version of DipTrace: http://www.diptrace.com/
I worked through the tutorial, then started to play with it. It took about 4 hrs before I became comfortable with it, and now it works great. You will probably have to add to their library to use parts for your custom design. I added in things like the power supply connector and I made a little component for the resonators, optical chip and contrast adjustment knob. They are pretty easy to make. Basically, you decide how many pins you need, then draw the shape with their tools, name the pins and you are ready to go. Drawing a part takes about 5 minutes. If it can be built from an existing part, it only takes about 2 minutes. Like the optical chip...it has 16 pins, so I copied an existing chip, changed the name and the name of the pins then saved it.
You will create one diagram that appears on the schematic, and one that appears on the actual board. They link together, so once you drop your·diagram on the schematic, it is also added to your board. Works out nicely.
Dan
All power drills tend to skid around at start up unless you use a center punch to set each hole prior to starting your drilling. Small diameter holes with sharp bits cut extremely fast by hand.
The pin vise for such small diameter twist drills allows me to get the hole exactly where I want it and doesn't take much effort to drill by hand. I also use the pin vise to drill out holes blocked by solder in repair work as it can get tedious to try to blow out hot metal.
I used to be a journeyman carpenter and I learned that power tools are always great for large scale production and heavy work, but good sharp hand tools generally sustain an important role for fine work and good details.
I wouldn't go anywhere without a hand saw, a wood chisel, a block plane, and a hand drill. Or course, the power drill and the skill saw came along too. But the guys that are all power tools generally butcher a lot of jobs. Sometimes, you just have to slow down and keep an eye on what you are doing in order to get good results.
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It's sunny and warm here. It is always sunny and warm here.... (unless a typhoon blows through).
Tropically, G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse] 黃鶴 ] in Taiwan
I really hadn't thought of doing it that way.
Dan
a perfect divot to start the drill and center automatically.
For hand build one-off's it's the best way to center the drilling.
Also, lift the board into the drill to start, not lower the drill to the board.
it helps to get the feel right and improves centering.
Be careful after the start that the drill doesn't climb the board.
The carbide bits are so sharp they tend to do that.
jr