Propeller Chip: No Propeller Chip Found on any serial port.

eWizardII

Hello,

I have read through various post on people's propeller chip's having this same problem. However none seemed to solve the problem. I believe I have installed the correct driver from FTDI (since I installed that first on the machine and then plugged in the prop and then added a 9V bat.). My first attempt I tried multiple times without success then one time upon transferring ir_oscope.spin (the program I had been trying) it worked, however the terminal did not load (but that is a different problem, I may have misread the code and really props do not have a debug terminal - blue screen like Basic stamps ?). Nevertheless I was reading one of the prop guides from parallax, and it said to check the rails, so I checked they were not 3.3V, so once I fixed that issue, I tried again. To no avail. What I have been trying is the following:

(1) usb cable is already plugged into PC
(2) Plug usb cable into prop ' the light is a dim green and there is a flash of both lights on the usb FTDI device that's on the board
(3) Plug in battery ' the light glows a solid green
(4) Attempt to detect prop ' a blue light flashes as the pc is scanning the com ports
(5) PC claims : No prop found on Com 5 in my case ' Although when it gets to that com port that it is actually on the blue light flashes - so it's like it knows it is there but at the same time it doesn't.

Please help me in diagnosing this problem.

(I have tried changing pcs, tried change the baud rate, reinstalled drivers and restarted, changed the latency -- all to no avail)

Post Edited (eWizardII) : 7/5/2008 4:18:23 AM GMT

Bob Lawrence (VE1RLL)

From the Propeller Tool:

Try:
- preferences

- edit ports

- restore defaults

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Aka: CosmicBob

eWizardII

I tried what you said but unfortunately it didn't work.

Rayman

What hardware do you have? Is this demo board or proto board? Maybe this is the USB proto board?
Make sure you have the latest Prop Tool (v1.2)

eWizardII

I have the Propeller Education Kit - 40 PIN DIP Version - #32305; On the machine I'm on right now since I had installed the software a while back I had 1.06 so I updated it to 1.2 (I did notice upon plugging in the usb cable the green light was dimmer than with the 1.06) I plugged in the 9V bat, and the light is solid green, then scanned for props, same problem. I also tried adjusting the latency again with the 1.2 version but that didn't work.

So...
I decided to install the FTDI drivers from the http://www.parallax.com/tabid/442/Default.aspx (Propeller Download Page) as opposed to the http://www.parallax.com/Default.aspx?tabid=530 (FTDI USB Driver Page). After I selected the FTDI port driver for both the COM port and the serial port I proceeded to test software again this time before it starts it says:
Last Session (1 minute) ago experience a fatal serial port error on:
COM 10: USB Serial Port

I have attached an image of what my drivers say.

Post Edited (eWizardII) : 7/5/2008 4:14:50 PM GMT

Leon

You probably have a hardware problem.

Leon

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eWizardII

Propeller Hardware problem or PC?

Leon

eWizardII said...
Propeller Hardware problem or PC?

Propeller, of course.

Leon

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Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle

Rayman

There's a bit of wiring with the Ed. Kit that has to be exact to make it work... So, I'd suspect something is wired wrong... Triple check all the wires and make sure you don't have the Prop Plug upside down...

eWizardII

I checked the wiring again (The prop plug has always been facing the right way, that is with the logo facing the board). Is there any specific value that should be read across the capacitors or any other way to check the hardware? If I click the rest button should anything happen? (like the LED change)

Leon

What test equipment do you have? If you have a scope you should be able to trace the input signal and see if it disappears, indicating a poor solder joint or a faulty part. If the signal is reaching the propeller, you should then check the output signal.

If you don't have a scope you could simply check the relevant solder joints. It might be easiest just to return it for a replacement. I'm assuming that the USB port you are using is working properly, of course.

Leon

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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle

eWizardII

Yes, unfortunately I don't have a scope, but I'll see what I can do with a multimeter.

Rsadeika

I would double check your 9V battery. I had a similar problem, the green LED was bright, but I could not get a COM connection. When I plugged in a fresh 9V battery, double check that it is around 9V, all the problems went away. I think that when I was getting a reading that was less than 8V, then I was starting to get some problems with·finding a·COM.

Ray

eWizardII

Yea I checked the battery read 9.30V.

Rsadeika

If all the above suggestions did not get you working, then just do a minimum build. Once you have the power supply wired, and getting the 3.3V, wire up the four necessary wires that lead to the propplug connector. At this point the computer should be finding the Prop chip, if it does not then you can double check the four wires, and see if that solves your problem. Once you have that working, then you can add the other components.

The first time I wired up my PE kit, I did not get anything, I was not a happy camper, so I just ripped everything out, and started from scratch( I think I did it a couple of times)·. If I would have known what the minimum build was, I would have saved a lot of hair from the top of my head. Have fun.

Ray

eWizardII

Could you please explain more about doing a minimal build. Because in order to get the 3.3V wouldn't I have to wire up the power circuitry and then add the other components. (http://www.parallax.com/Portals/0/Downloads/docs/prod/prop/PE-Lab-Setup-v1.0.pdf) Like on that pdf page 4, there is a build more minimalistic than that? If so, please elaborate I appreciate the help.

Rsadeika

Yes, like I said the four wires; you do not need the push button, crystal, or the EEPROM for the time being. Once you verify that you have 3.3V coming out of the power supply, then you can attach that to the Prop. Then add the other wires to the prop plug connector, that should get you started.

Ray

eWizardII

I have tried what you said however it did not work. (Although I'm going to keep trying various combination of solutions maybe it will work since this is a minimalistic circuit now that I can more easily check).

Techno Keith

Try another usb port?· Try a thumb drive or another usb device to ensure there is no problem with the pc or usb port.

computer guy

Make sure that the 3.3v regulator is putting out the correct voltage.
If the regulator is fine then like suggested before check your wires.

If the computer detects the FTDI USB->Serial adapter then I can't see how it could be computer related.

Make sure that the + out from the regulator goes to VDD of the prop, and GND goes to GND/VSS of the prop.

Other than that it is really hard to say what to do without actually being able to look at your setup.
Maybe you could take a picture of it and post it for us to look at.

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Building Blocks To The Propeller Chip

eWizardII

I don't believe that it is the usb ports (I've tried multiple pcs). I have attached three pictures of what my current set up is. Thanks for the help.

If you need a closer picture of a particular section, please say so.

computer guy

I can't see anything wrong from looking at those pictures.

1. Make sure that the prop plug is all the way on, when you first use it, it might take a bit of effort to get it to push all the way onto the pins.

2. Make sure that the reset button is on the right way use a multimeter to test that there is no continuity on the two pins (with wires attached) when the button is not pushed.

3. If there is then rotate the button 90deg leaving the wires where they are.

4. Check that there is 3.3v on the actual propeller chips pins (VDD and VSS) using a multimeter.

Hope this helps.

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Building Blocks To The Propeller Chip

BEEP

"I have attached three pictures of what my current set up is"

To avoid the harsh light created by the flash, you can taping a piece of white paper in front of the flash tube to diffuse the effect.

Leon

Those solderless breadboards are notorious for unreliable connections. You would be better off using a proper PCB.

Leon

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Amateur radio callsign: G1HSM
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle

Rayman

I think I see a minor problem with the power bus... You jumpered Vcc (red wires) across the gap in the middle of the bus, but not Gnd (black wires). So, the grounds at the back of the chip might not be right.

I would also double check the voltage at you RESn pin. A pulse low on this pin is used for identification. Make sure you read Vcc there. The pulse low may be too fast to see with a multimeter though...

eWizardII

Computer Guy said...

I can't see anything wrong from looking at those pictures.

1. Make sure that the prop plug is all the way on, when you first use it, it might take a bit of effort to get it to push all the way onto the pins.

2. Make sure that the reset button is on the right way use a multimeter to test that there is no continuity on the two pins (with wires attached) when the button is not pushed.

3. If there is then rotate the button 90deg leaving the wires where they are.

4. Check that there is 3.3v on the actual propeller chips pins (VDD and VSS) using a multimeter.

Hope this helps.

1. Check
2. Check
4. [noparse][[/noparse]Only the battery was plugged in 9.58V]
GND - RESn 3.44V
3.3V - GND (Left Side) 3.64 V {Oddly it increases if I leave it connected long enough at .01V}
3.3V - GND (Right Side) 3.52 V {Oddly it increases if I leave it connected long enough at .01V}
____

Leon said...

Those solderless breadboards are notorious for unreliable connections. You would be better off using a proper PCB.

Leon

Thanks for the note, I'll try another breadboard before looking at PCBing it.
____

Rayman said...

I think I see a minor problem with the power bus... You jumpered Vcc (red wires) across the gap in the middle of the bus, but not Gnd (black wires). So, the grounds at the back of the chip might not be right.

I would also double check the voltage at you RESn pin. A pulse low on this pin is used for identification. Make sure you read Vcc there. The pulse low may be too fast to see with a multimeter though...

I don't see the power bus problem, could you give me coordinates, thanks.

I checked the RESn pin voltage.
Battery Plugged in 3.41V {Oddly it increases if I leave it connected long enough at .01V}
USB Plugged in 0.00V
Battery + USB 3.48V {Oddly it increases if I leave it connected long enough at .01V}
Running detection...
still remains around 3.48V


I also tried an LED at the 3.3v locations on the prop, certainly brighter than the default green LED on the board, likewise at the RESn and GND section it is a lot dimmer than the other points on the board, it is about as dim as just plugging in the USB cable only. The voltage across my board's LED is about 2.3V.

Matthew Hay

Rayman the Gnd bus goes all the way down the board but the Vcc bus is split in two and requires a jumper.

Matthew Hay

eWizardII,
Other than you've disconnected the eeprom I didn't see anything wrong with you setup, reset button looks fine too.· Though one thing you might want to do is, clean up the wiring to something close to whats inside the lid of the·PE Kit lid, it makes troubleshooting wiring very simple.

Attached is a poor picture of my board for comparison.

I hate to even suggest this but it might be a bad prop chip.· I don't beleive it has anything to do with the prop plug since you said the blue light does blink when checking for the chip (dont believe it's the driver either).· So it's either got to be in the wiring (which I know you've checked, so doubt this) or the chip (which might have been damaged by the earlier troubles you had, though this is unclear).

So really at this point I'd suggest calling their tech support, the number is on the bottom of page 12 in the PE-Lab-Setup pdf file.

Sorry I couldn't solve your problem, good luck.

P.S.
··· Ignore the extra cap on my board where the battery is plugged in, it's there because I use a wall wart for power.

Rayman

Matthew Hay said...
Rayman the Gnd bus goes all the way down the board but the Vcc bus is split in two and requires a jumper.

Sorry.· I didn't know they made them like that...

I'm sure that nice picture will help.

Rayman

One other thing... I believe you can test the Prop plug by creating a loop-back connection. Do this by sticking in a jumper between the RX and TX plugs. Then, open a terminal window, like Hyperterminal, and whatever you type should appear on the screen...

I doubt the Prop Plug is the problem, but it might be fun to check this anyway...

eWizardII

Rayman said...

One other thing... I believe you can test the Prop plug by creating a loop-back connection. Do this by sticking in a jumper between the RX and TX plugs. Then, open a terminal window, like Hyperterminal, and whatever you type should appear on the screen...

I doubt the Prop Plug is the problem, but it might be fun to check this anyway...

Thanks for the advice, prop plug is working. So as Matthew says it may be the propeller, so I will contact support.

Post Edited (eWizardII) : 7/7/2008 4:23:18 AM GMT