How to connect a board with solder eyelets to a breadboard?

jtrz

Hi all,

I've done a few things with my BS2 and BOE.· But I'm kind of new to the electronics world...

I want to connect an OEM component board (RFID reader) that I have to my breadboard.· All the OEM component board has for connections is a row of 4 solder eyelets.

Can anyone tell me a way to connect the solder eyelets to the breadboard WITHOUT involving soldering?·

Is there a set of pins like header pins that might allow me to connect the component board to my breadboard?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

John

jtrz

Yes it's basic stamp related.

I have a BOE and a BS2. I want to connect an RFID reader module (not Parallax's) to the BOE and use it with the BS2.

But I don't know how to (or if you can) make a non-soldered connection between the BOE (my breadboard) and the module I have which only has solder eyelets.

I don't want to whip out the solder pencil just yet until I get this to work.

Thanks,

John

Franklin

If the holes are on .1 centers you can solder a header to the board then insert it into the breadboard. I know it requires soldering but if you are going to get into electronics that's a tool you will surely need.

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- Stephen

jtrz

Thanks Stephen. I thought I could do that. I'm not adverse to soldering. Don't it many times on larger scales though. But this is a new component and I just want to see if I can get it working with a "dry fit" (to use a woodworking term) before I do any soldering. Plus if this works for what I want it to do, I'm going to have to unsolder it and re-do it in another config.

But I think they are like that. They look like they're pretty similar to others I've seen. I'll try fiting a few headers into the holes tonight and see if that could be done.

Since I'm new to microelectronics, I don't know the scope of things that can be done and cannot yet.

So I thought I'd ask the pros! You guys!

Thanks!

John

Jonathan

I wouldn't bother trying to "dry fit". For things to work right, you need a solid connection. It is also *possible* to damage *some* parts with a dodgy conection. Just go ahead and solder in a header, it's easy enough to remove the header with a solder wick or sucker if you need to later. You may find a 90 degree (right angle) header is best, I'm not sure of the layout.

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