Rough Temperatures for Soldering?

Zoot

As a gift I received a Xytronic digital soldering station. 60w with calibrated tip temperature from 350 F to 850 F.

I generally solder with 60/40 (not lead free).

So... my question is, while I see sometimes on datasheets what a max soldering temperature (and duration) may be for a given device, what's a rough temperature range for general soldering (things like soldering headers to PCBs, IC sockets, resistors, etc.)? Or is that too broad a question?

In the past I've just used general hobbyist irons that are whatever temperature they are at, so I never really thought about it much (since I couldn't control it).

Also, I guess, since with this iron I should be able to do Pb-free soldering if I want, are the temperatures higher for Pb-free? or?

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Brian Carpenter

I use both Lead and lead free, mostly lead free. but i set mine at 700 f and never change it

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It's Only A Stupid Question If You Have Not Googled It First!!

Timothy D. Swieter

I set my soldering iron somewhere between 700 and 900 (f). For me, it mostly stays around 800, but I don't have any rhyme or reason for that. It is the temperature that works well for me. Sometimes if I am trying to soldering a tab on an IC or something where I need to get a lot of heat into it, I turn the iron up. Also your environment may adjust how well your iron works. If you have a draft or breeze blow through your work area, you may want to set the temp a little higher.

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Timothy D. Swieter

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Franklin

From a Kester datasheet:

Process Considerations:
Solder iron tip temperatures are most commonly between 315-371°C (600-700°F) for Sn63Pb37 and
Sn62Pb36Ag02 alloys. Heat both the land area and component lead to be soldered with the iron prior to
adding Kester 245 cored wire. Apply the solder wire to the land area or component lead. Do not apply the
wire directly to the soldering iron tip. If needed, Kester 951 or 952-D6 no clean flux may be used as a
compatible liquid flux to aid in reworking soldered joints. Kester 951 and 952-D6 are available in Flux-Pens®
for optimum board cleanliness.

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- Stephen

sam_sam_sam

Zoot

I also have one of the units as well Xytronic digital soldering station

·I set mine·from 675·to 750 this depend what component lead·are being·soldered and how·big the soldering pads are on the board

I can tell you that would·NOT go back to soldering station that was not
temperature controlled

I also like the temperature controlled desoldering station that I also have


I would NOT·trade them in for nothing I like them both·

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··Thanks for any··that you may have and all of your time finding them

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Sam

Zoot

Thanks all. This meshes with what I tracked down in the Xytronic recommendations (600-700 for soldering, slight higher for desoldering). Can't wait to try it out.

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LoopyByteloose

60-Watts may be a bit much for board work. I generally use a 30-watt device that has no control. Of course, with the control you may actually be getting a virtual 30-watt device. It may be a good idea for me to stop being cheap and move over to something that is more consistent.

The diameter or guage of the solder can affect your preferences as the smaller diameter requires less heat being dumped into it. Also, the tip geometry is a consideration.

I suspect that some people prefer a really hot tip to get in and out fast whilst others work more slowly. The data sheets state a maximum temperature for so many seconds. In general that is easy to comply with. About the only problem areas are sensitive sensors - thermopiles and PIRs for example. One has to be very careful with these and using protective heat sinks is a wise way to go.

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···················· Tropically,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan

Post Edited (Kramer) : 6/13/2008 6:59:56 AM GMT

Zoot

Kramer -- my understanding had been that tip shape and temperature are what really affect heat to the solder joint -- wattage will give an indication of how quickly the iron recovers (i.e. maintains it's heat even while soldering repeatedly). In a non-temp. controlled iron, things can be quite different, of course.

In this case, the iron has a tip temp. sensor w/feedback to the base, so in theory the temp. is maintained accurately. I've got a variety of tips, from tiny tiny·conicals·to a big 1/8" chisel.· It's also ESD-safe, though I am always careful anyway and haven't (fingers crossed) yet fried a chip from static discharge.

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LoopyByteloose

Hi Zoot,
Yes, the tip is actually a 'thermal mass' that is a reserve of heat. The 60-watts is regulated, so I guess that means it cycles recovery faster than 30 watts. In my case, the 30 watts would be a steady state device that is a whole different situation. The shape of the tip actually determines the 'conduit'. A wedge is a big conduit. So is soldering with the side of a tip, rather than the point. I suspect if at all possible everyone cheats a bit and uses the side of a tip when things are going too slow.

I suspect that an ESD-safe soldering iron is really the only safe way to protect against ESD. Wrist straps can actually kill a person if they accidentally touch the wrong thing. Wrist straps are supposed to have a 1 meg resistor internally to avoid this, but who knows unless you test it apart to check. And if you burn out your resistor, no ESD protection.

In sum, I would likely try to get the nearest temperature to the melting point that works for you. If the mass of the tip is larger, that is even better. Much depends on the speed of recovery of the thermal mass. If you are doing a lot of work, a higher temperature may be required to speed recovery. If you are doing occasional assembly with a lot of standby, the lower temperature will preserve your tip and electric bill.

As it is, I have trouble with excessive heating of boards with a 30-watt iron an have considered buy a 30-watt for fine delicate work. In some cases, the copper becomes separated from the board. And yet, if I have to assemble something like 10 gauge solid copper for real power distribution - I'd consider buying a Weller solder gun as a 60-watt iron may not produce good results.

In sum, since wire size is rated to amperage - so is the soldering iron size.

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PLEASE CONSIDER the following:

Do you want a quickly operational black box solution or the knowledge included therein?······

···················· Tropically,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan