This is very well done, Mike. I gave my two Proto Boards away; otherwise I also thought doing this some time ago.
The obvious differences are:
- This would not fit so nicely into solderless breadboards.
- If, then there will be 12 I/O lines only easily accessable
- There is no longer any volateg regulation
But this will not be an issue in many cases, the differenece of the price tag speaks for itself
WRT item 2: You can solder female headers at the top of the remaining sides to allow the access to the other 16 lines as well..
Mike, after seeing how much shorter you cut yours than OldbitCollector, it got me thinking you could do the same with the left over power supply and mouse,keyboard, and VGA. just soldier a few pins and plug it into a bread board.
I had this same though after seeing what Oldbitcollector did for the mini-DVD hack... I think it makes a lot of sense for setups that aren't going to use VGA and get power another way... I think I would have left one or two more rows of holes all around though...
@deSilva: Yes that was what I was thinking, on pins P0..P7 and P16..P22 I would install the header on top so I can plug in jumpers to access the rest of the pins from the top side.
Will fit nicely on a bread board, if you join two bread boards together.
Yes you'll have to a regulator, but I've got a 3.6VDC lithium battery powered application in mind. Need to add the SD socket and the Xbee!
Or you can put the pins in DIL format, two groups of 10.. [noparse]:)[/noparse], you keep the foot print. A regulator can be soldered to the other side of the board.
I still propose to use a Schottly diode (1N5818) , if you cannot guarantee a limitation of the max charge voltage to - say - 3.8 volts.
Edit:
The diode will reduce the voltage by 0.3 V so you can use the more efficient overloaded area (which can always happen when you are not very careful with the loading process!) rather than the other end. The Prop will stop at 3V, corresponding to 3.3V with a Shottky diode, which is still fine for any battery.
I enclose a typically discharge curve for a 3.6 V scenario, meassured by myself during a long sleepless night; so the current drawn was most likely 150 to 200 mA ... I do not remember any longer.. Some LEDs were on .. 8 or 10...
@ bambino: Come on get five while your ordering! I'll bet if we can 'rally' Ken G. we can get him to offer a 6 Pack of proto boards for $100!
@ deSilva: Agreed a Schottly diode would probably be in order for a standard lithium battery, however I've been playing on the wild side and have not been using the recommended voltage translation fro 3.3vdc to 5vdc voltage translations! Note: your mileage and component burnout may vary! Been lucky so far!
I'm not that familiar with delta sigma, so I can offer any advice there, however there are loads of other smarter people that frequent here so they might have a comment.
I needed a cheap small platform to do various tasks, normally the proto board is adequate, but sometimes I needed to package my projects in a smaller package. I haven't built anything that has gone to production, just gadgets!
Note to self: this is a nice size to fit in a model rocket!
If anyone is thinking about doing this modification then let it be known that RES is NOT brought out. You'll have to use an unused pad to connect RES. I used the pad next to P31. This way you'll be able to program the Propeller.
Here's a trick you might not be aware of: For tackng down wirewrap wire modifications, I use clear nail polish. It's tidy, dries fast, and is almost invisible. (It's rather permanent, though, which may be why you used tape.)
@Mike, On the Boards! Would if I could, but the lady in the kitchen is real handy with a knife.
I do wish they could bring back the six packs! I'll put off my purchase for a bit and see if they do. I'll paypal you for one if you want to break open a pack. I know the LCD hack has boosted their sales, it's only logical the protoboards are going to benifit as well. When I bought my LCD it was only 12.95 and now(after Oldbitcollectors hack) there selling for 19.95. And since the company is bottoms up, They may get higher!
@Phil
Great idea, I have a bottle of nail hardener that I use. Be carefull though the first kind I tried had some conductivity in it!
Using the Propeller Tool I was able to load a program via F10. However I was getting an error when I tried loading a program to EEPROM using F11. So since my big sander probably cut through a trace I had to add a jumper wire from VSS to VSS, not a big deal.
Geez, I go out for a family day and you guys break out the saws!! Nice work Mike!
I've got my sanded down, and yes I wanted enough room to added the resistors for the video and audio connections,
so I left 5 holes all the way around. Funny, it's about the same size as a 370 CPU. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
So it's the RES line that I'm going to have to break out, right? About the VSS connection, shouldn't any of them
be a good spot to hook in?
I'm waiting for Wizard's Futurelec order to get here before I implant it into the Cyberhome player, so you
guys might get ahead of me a bit.. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
OBC
<EDIT> Don't cut away too much I/O, I've got another trick up my sleeve for the Cyberhome player. :P </EDIT>
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ New to the Propeller?
Getting started with the Protoboard? - Propeller Cookbook
Got an SD card? - PropDOS
A Living Propeller FAQ - The Propeller Wiki (Got the Knowledge? Got a Moment? Add something today!)
Post Edited (Oldbitcollector) : 2/10/2008 12:17:59 AM GMT
Comments
that is built around a DIP24 socket (to replace basic/javelin stamps).
regards peter
The obvious differences are:
- This would not fit so nicely into solderless breadboards.
- If, then there will be 12 I/O lines only easily accessable
- There is no longer any volateg regulation
But this will not be an issue in many cases, the differenece of the price tag speaks for itself
WRT item 2: You can solder female headers at the top of the remaining sides to allow the access to the other 16 lines as well..
@deSilva: Yes that was what I was thinking, on pins P0..P7 and P16..P22 I would install the header on top so I can plug in jumpers to access the rest of the pins from the top side.
Will fit nicely on a bread board, if you join two bread boards together.
Yes you'll have to a regulator, but I've got a 3.6VDC lithium battery powered application in mind. Need to add the SD socket and the Xbee!
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Mike
I've started implementing SD, but Xbee is just not in the budget.
Thought about doing it with a right angle header.......Talk about parallel Propeller Processing!
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Mike
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=706724
I still propose to use a Schottly diode (1N5818) , if you cannot guarantee a limitation of the max charge voltage to - say - 3.8 volts.
Edit:
The diode will reduce the voltage by 0.3 V so you can use the more efficient overloaded area (which can always happen when you are not very careful with the loading process!) rather than the other end. The Prop will stop at 3V, corresponding to 3.3V with a Shottky diode, which is still fine for any battery.
I enclose a typically discharge curve for a 3.6 V scenario, meassured by myself during a long sleepless night; so the current drawn was most likely 150 to 200 mA ... I do not remember any longer.. Some LEDs were on .. 8 or 10...
Post Edited (deSilva) : 2/9/2008 9:32:49 PM GMT
@ deSilva: Agreed a Schottly diode would probably be in order for a standard lithium battery, however I've been playing on the wild side and have not been using the recommended voltage translation fro 3.3vdc to 5vdc voltage translations! Note: your mileage and component burnout may vary! Been lucky so far!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Mike
Bambino
I'm not that familiar with delta sigma, so I can offer any advice there, however there are loads of other smarter people that frequent here so they might have a comment.
I needed a cheap small platform to do various tasks, normally the proto board is adequate, but sometimes I needed to package my projects in a smaller package. I haven't built anything that has gone to production, just gadgets!
Note to self: this is a nice size to fit in a model rocket!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Mike
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Mike
Just as soon as he gets his wish for 36 hour days!
FYI!
If anyone is thinking about doing this modification then let it be known that RES is NOT brought out. You'll have to use an unused pad to connect RES. I used the pad next to P31. This way you'll be able to program the Propeller.
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Mike
Here's a trick you might not be aware of: For tackng down wirewrap wire modifications, I use clear nail polish. It's tidy, dries fast, and is almost invisible. (It's rather permanent, though, which may be why you used tape.)
'Just thought I'd mention it...
-Phil
I do wish they could bring back the six packs! I'll put off my purchase for a bit and see if they do. I'll paypal you for one if you want to break open a pack. I know the LCD hack has boosted their sales, it's only logical the protoboards are going to benifit as well. When I bought my LCD it was only 12.95 and now(after Oldbitcollectors hack) there selling for 19.95. And since the company is bottoms up, They may get higher!
@Phil
Great idea, I have a bottle of nail hardener that I use. Be carefull though the first kind I tried had some conductivity in it!
Post Edited (bambino) : 2/9/2008 10:24:05 PM GMT
Using the Propeller Tool I was able to load a program via F10. However I was getting an error when I tried loading a program to EEPROM using F11. So since my big sander probably cut through a trace I had to add a jumper wire from VSS to VSS, not a big deal.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Mike
Post Edited (Mike Cook) : 2/9/2008 10:29:49 PM GMT
Phil,
Agreed clear nail polish is wonderful stuff! I've been educated!
I know this since I'm the only male out of four female cats, one female dog, and two other female humans in my family (Wife & Daughter)!
Used the 'Magic' tape since it was handy!
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Mike
I've got my sanded down, and yes I wanted enough room to added the resistors for the video and audio connections,
so I left 5 holes all the way around. Funny, it's about the same size as a 370 CPU. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
So it's the RES line that I'm going to have to break out, right? About the VSS connection, shouldn't any of them
be a good spot to hook in?
I'm waiting for Wizard's Futurelec order to get here before I implant it into the Cyberhome player, so you
guys might get ahead of me a bit.. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
OBC
<EDIT> Don't cut away too much I/O, I've got another trick up my sleeve for the Cyberhome player. :P </EDIT>
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
New to the Propeller?
Getting started with the Protoboard? - Propeller Cookbook
Got an SD card? - PropDOS
A Living Propeller FAQ - The Propeller Wiki
(Got the Knowledge? Got a Moment? Add something today!)
Post Edited (Oldbitcollector) : 2/10/2008 12:17:59 AM GMT
www.allsurplus.net/CNC
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Mike