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Diesel Generator controller — Parallax Forums

Diesel Generator controller

HealinhandHealinhand Posts: 5
edited 2008-01-30 18:52 in BASIC Stamp
Has anyone built a diesel generator controller using the basic stamp? Ideas? Help?

Comments

  • stamptrolstamptrol Posts: 1,731
    edited 2008-01-07 18:33
    Are you only interested in controlling the generator output or also the auto-start of the engine as well?

    The Stamp can be used for one or both. It really helps if you have the schematics of the generator and any existing control box.

    Cheers,

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Tom Sisk

    http://www.siskconsult.com
    ·
  • HealinhandHealinhand Posts: 5
    edited 2008-01-07 18:36
    autostart, glowplug timer, rpm, low oil psi shut down....the works. Gen is bare bones.
    Thanks, Gary
  • Ken GraceyKen Gracey Posts: 7,401
    edited 2008-01-07 18:38
    Healinhand,

    I've used the SX with SX/B to regulate engine RPM from a Honda engine used in a small robot. The forum members were very helpful, including Tom (above).

    I built the generator from an alternator and an engine. If you're interested in using an integrated diesel generator then it likely has a demand budget feedback built-in already.

    What are your thoughts?

    Ken Gracey
  • stamptrolstamptrol Posts: 1,731
    edited 2008-01-07 18:44
    Gary,

    Make a list of the inputs and outputs you'll need. That will determine which model Stamp would be best.

    RPM can be measured by reading the output frequency of the generator. The engine's mechanical governor will be set to give the right output frequency ( 60 Hz probably).

    How big is this setup? What is the budget?

    Cheers,

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Tom Sisk

    http://www.siskconsult.com
    ·
  • HealinhandHealinhand Posts: 5
    edited 2008-01-07 19:10
    Its a small 3 cyl Isuzu, 3LB1. 6 KW. Budget....Cheap, Beg, Borrow, Steal....lol On the start sequence 1. check for battery voltage. 2. turn on fuel pump 3. turn on glow plugs. 4. Start engine. if it fales to start (60 rpm, maybe a mag pickup on the flywheel) restart the sequence. Maybe 3 times. also low oil psi cut-off, and high water temp cut-off. The engine uses a solenoid for fuel cut-off. I have a Trace inverter that has a generator start feature. Engine has a govt. for rpm control.
    Thanks Gary
  • stamptrolstamptrol Posts: 1,731
    edited 2008-01-07 19:27
    Gary,

    OK. Signal from the Trace inverter tells the stamp to initiate a start sequence.

    I wouldn't bother with checking battery voltage....when you're cranking, its going to be pulled down anyhow. You might take a reading when the glow plugs are on, but you still might not have enough to crank.

    Turn on fuel pump and glow plugs. Wait for the appropriate time to elapse. (maybe a shorter time if the cyliders are already warm).

    Engage starter and run it until you get to at least 30 HZ ( half-speed).......make sure this number is higher than the starter can get to by itself. What you are proving is that the engine has fired.

    If engine fails to start ( by taking too long), reset and do a restart.

    When running, continuously check oil pressure, water temp, etc.

    Good luck.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Tom Sisk

    http://www.siskconsult.com
    ·
  • frogpiratefrogpirate Posts: 1
    edited 2008-01-22 00:38
    stamptrol said...

    "Turn on fuel pump and glow plugs. Wait for the appropriate time to elapse. (maybe a shorter time if the cyliders are already warm)."


    You could use a coolant temp sensor to verify engine temp. If above xx do not fire the glow pugs, or only wait xx time. Check DIYAutoTune.com for sensors; I'm using them for a MegaSquirt EFI project.

    Ken
  • Matt W.Matt W. Posts: 4
    edited 2008-01-23 18:44
    With the oil pressure and water temp, I would monitor them with the Stamp but let the actual devices (pressure and temp switches) shut the unit down (ie de-energize the fuel solenoid). I'd hate to rely on the Stamp, as robust as it is, to shut the unit down.

    BTW, I'm an Instrumentation and Controls Technician for a natural gas compressor station. 7000HP natural gas fired, 2 stroke, turbocharged reciprocating engines.
  • icepuckicepuck Posts: 466
    edited 2008-01-24 02:35
    One problem that needs to be addressed is the type of glow plug controller that you have. Do you have to press and hold a switch and wait for a glow plug indicator to start glowing(manual)? Or is the the type where you just turn on the main power and wait for a glow plug indicator light to go out before pushing the start button?
    The reason for bringing this up is when I had a remote starter installed on my truck, it had to be programed to wait for the glow plug indicator light to go out before activating the starter.
    One other option is to search for an oem service manual that has a wiring diagram, you may get lucky and have a generator that has access terminals for an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) which may make the interface to the basic stamp a lot simpler. Otherwise you will end up spending a lot of time creating your own access points for your controller.a more modern generator will have all the low oil/over heat monitoring already built in..
    hope there's something here that will help...
    -dan

    Post Edited (icepuck) : 1/24/2008 2:41:45 AM GMT
  • ColtColt Posts: 24
    edited 2008-01-24 03:35
    ·· For RPM, what most used on that engine is a pickup that bolts to the engine plate bolted on the back. If thats the engine I'm thinking it is, I work with them often in the transport refrigeration business ( we're a Carrier dealership ), if it's not the exact one, it's very close to it....·The pickup·generates it's own voltage as the starter ring gear passes by ( millivolts if I remember right )... ThermoKing sells them, but it's probably a bit pricey for what your needing..·· Speed control, just a solenoid would work fine. APU units on the semi tractors are controled by just a solenoid, nothing else is needed ( Carrier's uses a 4K watt generator, TK's use a·alternator and invertors ).·· Glow plugs, just a 70 amp relay would work fine, normal glow time around 10 seconds in warm weather, none for water temps above 120, minute and a half around 32 degree's or lower. The newer equipment, the plugs are controled by the micro, older equipment was manual. Fuel solenoid just needs 12vdc power, not sure on the amp draw..·· I'd add a water temp safety ( 230 degree's ), and a oil pressure safety ( 7 psi ).. Even though you want those functions to be controled by a stamp or whatever, a fail safe is always nice, and is standard on all TK units, along with thermistors, and pressure senders·for micro controled units..

    ·· I've got a 3 cyl Yanmar that was involved in a wreck, has 300 hrs on the engine.. But has a broken front cover, this is why I havnt done anything with it... Parts for these small engines is insane, keep the water temps in check and they will run well past 15,000 hrs though. Fuel leaks, injectors, and water pumps are all that really ever go wrong with them..······ Dont know if any of that is helpful, but if ya need to know anything about it I can probably answer it for ya..
  • icepuckicepuck Posts: 466
    edited 2008-01-25 01:49
    Cats are the worst, $150 for one connecting rod $1000 for a new crank with rod and main bearings, this was for a small(made by perkins) 4cyl cat diesel.
    -dan
  • HealinhandHealinhand Posts: 5
    edited 2008-01-30 18:52
    Thanks guys....I`m new using the stamp, so I have a ways to go
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