Like to know if this printer is o.k. for toner transfer

allie

·Could any one let me know if they use lexmark model C520n color laser printer for pulsar's toner transfer paper and the Decal papers from pulsar also.
·I just bought a new one on clearance sale for $85. I would·like to know if its any good before I open the box as there is a 30 day·take back policy if it's no good for this toner transfer work.That's all that I need it for as I already have another 1315 photo smart for other uses.

·allie


Post Edited (allie) : 1/5/2008 9:25:11 PM GMT

Steve Joblin

any LASER printer will work... inkjet printers will NOT work. Pulsar's materials are good, but it seems that many have had great success with Staples photo paper and even magazines.

allie

·Thanks for response.

·I know that it has to be a laser but some lasers are better than others. pulsar says the new brother line of lasers use·a new type of toner with an epoxy base material·and they say not to use them. It won't work with their system.

·The reason I posted above question was, does the above model print·thick enough and if not can you put the toner transfer paper back in the printer and print the cicuit board layout image over it again to get it thicker.

Pulsar also says some newer hp lasers color printers, the cheaper ones that·the paper pulsar uses is a bit to thick but it still goes througt.

Just wondering if the one I bought, the·lexmark c520n feeds the paper o.k. and prints·thick enought.

I checked lexmarks web site teck. dept. for specks but couldn't find any results. There is a control toolbox which you can change settings but I was wondering if any one used this model yet.

allie












Post Edited (allie) : 1/6/2008 11:27:07 PM GMT

Steve Joblin

I would also post your question at http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ ... it is a forum with lots of great info dedicated to making PCB's

allie

Thanks steve I'll do that now.

allie

LoopyByteloose

Dark enough isn't the issue with the toner transfer methodology, The goal is about forming a complete barrier to resist the etching solution on a slick surface that will faithfully transfer the toner to the copper plate. Something that fully creates a chemical barrier may allow light to pass through. Toner is essentially thermoplastic powder with carbon added.

Opacity is only an issue if you are printing a transparency to be used for exposure to a photosensitive emulsion. [noparse][[/noparse]I personally like this way better as I get neater images than with toner transfer.It really is a matter of personal preference.] The less dark, the shorter you have to adjust your exposure time. At some point, a light print may not work at all as the board won't hold the image when developed.

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PLEASE CONSIDER the following:

Do you want a quickly operational black box solution or the knowledge included therein?······

···················· Tropically,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan

Post Edited (Kramer) : 1/6/2008 12:46:16 PM GMT

allie

·Thanks Kramer for your info.I now realize that I didn't word my post right as I should have asked does that printer model transfer toner thick enough.

·allie

pwillard

Here is·also a good thing to know before you start.

Laser printers are great at depositing a good amount of toner in small areas.

Printing a LARGE BLACK area will always strain the printers ability to provide good toner coverage.· It usually requires more toner than is normally available at the print area so it will "thin out".· Best to break up large "resist" areas with a·cross-hatch pattern than let it remain solid if the area is larger than 1" x 1".

·If you do print a large black toner area in your design·and are concerned about the etchant creating poc marks in the copper·of the lightly covered resist area, I have a solution that works.· I use Clear Nail polish to cover the area of concern after I have removed the transfer medium (Glossy papper, decal sheet, whatever) and can see the areas that seem "lightly" protected by toner.

pw

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There's nothing like a new idea and a warm soldering iron.

allie

·Thanks pwillard for your info, as I would have used a solid black block because I seen on·some internet site better to use the·solid methiod.

·This is all new to me with computers so I would have just wasted toner.

·I build a few boards with old methods. (ie; when you took the lines of paper by hand and stuck them to·the board.

regards:

allie
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