FLiP robot

Hi,
I'm in the process of the design of an affordable mini robot for my students with super capabilities, using the Propeller FLiP microcontroller module
powered from the PowerPal Selectable Voltage 3-Amp Breadboard Power Supply
The chassis and the rest parts of the robot will be 3d Printed...
For the motors, I'm not sure yet (probably cheap geared steppers.....)
But the main part I'm looking for is a Shield in order to adapt the Flip and the PowerPal.
The simplest way is a mini breadboard like the NICERC DIY Breadboard Circuits Kit or the Circuit Overlay Board
Is there something else for that purpose??

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Comments

  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,095
    edited 2019-11-25 - 03:35:47
    @NikosG - Sounds like a very exciting project.

    I think you will need something more like 1/2 the Breadboard for Propeller FLiP Try-it Kit - see https://www.parallax.com/product/700-32023 .

    You will need the space for the FLiP and the 3-Amp Breadboard Power Supply. The power bus will be useful too and you will still have some room to build some circuits for Ping))) or LaserPING.

    The Small Breadboard - White (https://www.parallax.com/product/700-00012 used in the NICERC DIY Breadboard Circuits Kit will be too small.

    See this photo to get an idea about what I'm talking about. The FLiP takes 20 rows of pins (on each side of the board's center gap). There are 30 rows on the Breadboard for Propeller FLiP Try-it Kit. There are only 17 rows on the Small Breadboard.
    32133d.jpg

    The Breadboard is the way to go IMHO.
    1000 x 1000 - 104K
    Whit+

    "We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
  • WhitWhit Posts: 4,095
    edited 2019-11-25 - 03:17:55
    Whit+

    "We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-11-25 - 16:55:00
    @whit
    I was thinking something tinier but equally powerful ..... something like this
    idea.jpg
    but instead the Arduino nano the PArallax FLiP

    I love that mini shield for Arduino nano and I'm looking for something similar to that for the Propeller FLiP

    Maybe I'll try to design from my own a Shield for the FLiP that will have the basics: Power and
    two sockets for the motors.
    598 x 767 - 108K
  • VonSzarvasVonSzarvas Posts: 1,717
    edited 2019-11-25 - 07:13:48
    From the top secret lab... This might tick all the boxes:


    .. Watch out for Ken's social feed announcements in December :)
  • Is that a prop version of the Sumo Bot??
    Returning to Spin after two months of not coding micros at all, forgetting to use :=
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-11-25 - 17:03:59
    VonSzarvas wrote: »
    From the top secret lab... This might tick all the boxes:


    .. Watch out for Ken's social feed announcements in December :)

    Exactly that! I don't care if it was even smaller (only the right side without the Wifi part).
    I couldn't find anything on announcements........
  • Not sure if you can glean any ideas from it, but my Rocka platform used miniature continuous rotation servos for a similar platform solution. It was essentially a micro Stingray.
    https://forums.parallax.com/discussion/comment/1178342/#Comment_1178342
  • Not sure if you can glean any ideas from it, but my Rocka platform used miniature continuous rotation servos for a similar platform solution. It was essentially a micro Stingray.
    https://forums.parallax.com/discussion/comment/1178342/#Comment_1178342

    It is awesome! I love the "Stingray" style! I want my FLiP Bot to have a pen & pen lifter and think "Stingray"is the perfect design !!!
    I'm also thinking instead of the gearing steppers, to use the Parallax Feedback 360° High Speed servos
    The size of that Stingray will be bigger than yours almost the size of an activity bot....
  • NikosG wrote: »
    Maybe I'll try to design from my own a Shield for the FLiP that will have the basics: Power and
    two sockets for the motors.

    That is a cool idea!


    Whit+

    "We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
  • VonSzarvas wrote: »
    From the top secret lab... This might tick all the boxes:


    .. Watch out for Ken's social feed announcements in December :)

    This is very interesting. I've been gathering information and preparing a shopping list for my next maze-solving robot, and thought that the SumoBot chasis (#720-27403) would probably fit the bill, mainly because it is smaller than the ActivityBot. Could you please reveal more?

    Here is a link to last year's effort: https://vimeo.com/303282440
  • VonSzarvasVonSzarvas Posts: 1,717
    edited 2019-12-01 - 18:39:26
    Addington wrote: »
    VonSzarvas wrote: »
    From the top secret lab... This might tick all the boxes:


    .. Watch out for Ken's social feed announcements in December :)

    This is very interesting. I've been gathering information and preparing a shopping list for my next maze-solving robot, and thought that the SumoBot chasis (#720-27403) would probably fit the bill, mainly because it is smaller than the ActivityBot. Could you please reveal more?

    Here is a link to last year's effort: https://vimeo.com/303282440

    You'll need to wait a week or two. December is closing in fast for the next announcement! Sadly I can't really reveal more just now.
  • Addington wrote: »
    VonSzarvas wrote: »
    From the top secret lab... This might tick all the boxes:


    .. Watch out for Ken's social feed announcements in December :)

    This is very interesting. I've been gathering information and preparing a shopping list for my next maze-solving robot, and thought that the SumoBot chasis (#720-27403) would probably fit the bill, mainly because it is smaller than the ActivityBot. Could you please reveal more?

    Here is a link to last year's effort: https://vimeo.com/303282440

    Looks like the SumoBot is on EOL. A Prop based Sumo-like bot would be great. Stay tuned.
    https://www.parallax.com/product/27402
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-11-26 - 18:41:10
    Whit wrote: »
    NikosG wrote: »
    Maybe I'll try to design from my own a Shield for the FLiP that will have the basics: Power and
    two sockets for the motors.

    That is a cool idea!


    Yes, That Shield could help many people.....
    Here is the basic platform for my design:
    Flip_PowerPal%20Shield.JPG
    The shield will be very simple, will accommodate the FLiP and the PowerPal and some Schokets for servos. When the shield is ready will replace the breadboard. The dimensions will be 76mm x 40 mm approximately
    1824 x 1368 - 1M
  • OK VonSzarvas, I will wait, & thanks for the preview.
  • This is a board I am using for a larger bot, but it's pretty small, so it might work for you.
    It was a board parallax designed in conjunction with letsrobot (will be using it with remo.tv soon), but I was given permission to make some of my own (used oshpark).
    If Ken is okay with it I can share the files with you. It uses a different power solution (cheap dc to dc modules) one powers the FLiP and the other powers the servo connections. The main input power is 12v, but that is adjustable.
    flip_module_board.PNG
    1226 x 943 - 3M
  • This is what the bare board looks like. It says 11.1v input voltage, but I have been using it with 12v in (as I said before it's adjustable via the power modules).
    Parts are mostly connectors and a few simple passives.
    flip_bare_board.PNG
    1238 x 379 - 1M
  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    ......
    If Ken is okay with it I can share the files with you. It uses a different power solution (cheap dc to dc modules) one powers the FLiP and the other powers the servo connections. .....

    At least can I send you my design to check for potential mistakes?
    I have no experience of such kind of design and I'm afraid if I destroy my FLiP modules...

    That "Let's robot" board is very close to that I'm looking for....
  • Oh yeah, of course you can share our files freely.

    That was a nice PCB for Jill Ogle, who is now REMO.TV. She re-wrote all of her Let's Robot server software, properly documented it, and has it up and running with some Parallaxy robots.

    Ken Gracey
  • Whit+

    "We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
  • Roy ElthamRoy Eltham Posts: 2,684
    edited 2019-11-27 - 04:24:20
    Here is the design on oshpark if you want to just have them send you the board:
    https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/9ktgKwYj

    I've also attached a zip file of all the gbr files if you want to use another pcb place.

    It's a very compact and simple board to build, plus all the FLiP pins are easily accessible.

    I am happy to check out your design also, but I'm just a beginner myself on PCB design. The above board was designed by the professionals at Parallax in collaboration with Jill Ogle.


    Ken,
    Thanks, just wanted to be sure. I have shared the project on oshpark so others can order board too. I had previously kept it private, because I wasn't sure.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-11-27 - 13:54:28
    @Roy & @Ken Thank you!!!!

    However, I can't open the GIMP files.
    I have the GIMP ver. 2.8.14
    gimp.jpg
    What version is required?
    Are these files available in another format?
    386 x 439 - 42K
  • Nikos,
    They are "Gerber" files. You need a Gerber viewer to view them. There are free Gerber viewers online.
  • Gerber files are what you usually need to send to a PCB manufacturing place in order to get the boards made.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-12-01 - 18:08:02
    @Publison & @Roy Eltham thank you!!!
    Roy's board has the ideal size and geometry for my robot...
    I think that it fits better in my chassis. I think that would be better to place the Power pal next to the long side of the Flip...
    Here is the robot till now...
    RFP_02.JPG
    I've ordered some Parallax Feedback 360° High Speed Servos at Thanksgiving sale and I'm waiting to put them together
    865 x 626 - 294K
  • Amazing! I love the stingray shape!
    Returning to Spin after two months of not coding micros at all, forgetting to use :=
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-12-02 - 06:26:04
    @Roy Eltham , @Publison
    I've just ordered your board (they 'll send me 3 boards ) but I don't know what other electronics I need in order to finish the board. Can you send me a list of the electronics that I'll need, please?
    I have a pending order from Parallax (some 360 Servos) so I can add these electronics in my order...


















  • Attached is a PDF with the schematic and BOM/parts list.
    It includes part numbers so you can search them on digikey or similar site.
    I got the power modules from Amazon (cheaper).
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 684
    edited 2019-12-02 - 08:00:39
    Amazing! I love the stingray shape!

    I have not the final design because I'm trying to find the perfect tail wheel for that robot. So I'm going to "play" with dimensions a little bit in order to be ok with the tail wheel.
    For rough research, I found a 38mm diameter Omni wheel:
    tail_wheel.jpg
    Although the perfect size would be a little bit smaller I' think that this wheel is good enough

    However, if anyone has seen something smaller than this, or something similar, please let a comment.

    When the project is finished I'll post the G-code and STL files in this thread as well as
    all the list of materials
    500 x 500 - 55K
  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    Attached is a PDF with the schematic and BOM/parts list.
    It includes part numbers so you can search them on digikey or similar site.
    I got the power modules from Amazon (cheaper).

    Thank you Roy!!!
    One question please: The two power modules 5V and 6V are "ready" components or I must make them?
  • The Power modules came already built from amazon, just had to solder the pins on them to stick down into the pin sockets on the PCB.
    They are adjustable, so you turn the pot on them to set the output voltage to 5V and 6V respectively (before plugging anything else in).
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