Hey folks! I'm cooking along with my build. I have a question about connecting the hoverfly....
The hoverfly docs say that you should only connect one power wire from the ESCs. (See page 37 of the hoverfly manual) However, in the builds I've looked at online, I see people just leaving all three wires connected to the mini plugs. Is this safe? If not, what's the best way to tie off the power wires?
Easiest way is to remove the pin from the plug. You can then just snip the end off and call it good - it will look like all three are still connected. Or pull the pin out, fold it back on the wire and heatshrink it, or remove the pin from both ends and peel the wires apart and remove it entirely.
Each ESC has a BEC (regulator) to convert the input power to 5V. Only one of them should be used to power the HoverFLy board for the same reason that we do not use multiple regulators on PCBs.
@W9GFO - The reason is that each ESC will not output EXACTLY 5 volts. So if you have 1 ESC producing 4.9 volts and another giving 5.1 volts, they will waste power "arguing" over the difference
Anyone using batteries rated higher than 30C with 25A ESC?
I am looking at 45C type batteries, same weight but higher storage current, if they are ok should mean longer flights (more fun).
Higher C rating allows you to pull more amps from the pack. A 20C 3S 5000 pack will let you draw 100 amps. More than enough with the motors included in the quad kit.
C rating won't increase run time just allows for a hotter setup. The mAh value increase run time.
Use this equation ((C x mAh )/(1000)) = Max Amp draw.
The kit motors use around 20 amps each. So you need a pack that can handle 80 amps.
I guess my question is not specific enough. I found on the RC forums that this Turnigy 2217 860V/RPM motors have a thrust of 37oz using the APC slo 11x4.7 as seen in this quote:
Turnigy 2217/20
Prop\Watts\RPM\Amps\Thrust
APC slo 11x4.7\210\6600\19.5\37oz
APC slo 11X3.8\175\7200\15\33.5oz
APC thin E 11X5.5\175\7500\15\33.5oz
What is the thrust using the 10x4.7 props that Parallax shipped with. I need to calculate how heavy a battery to purchase for my flight systems, telemetry systems, FPV system and Camcorder. What is the total weight that the my custom ELEV-8 can weigh with the 10x4.7 porpellers?
With the 11x4.7 propellers I know that I cannot exceed 4.625lbs because my total thrust is 9.25lbs
I am not saying the higher C number will give you longer flight time, but the C45's can be charged at higher rate (so quicker turn around for the same 4400mA).
I am looking at higher storage 5000mA & 6500mA over my current 4400mA battery this sould yeild longer flying times due to the C45's 5000mA is close to the same weight and size as the 4400mA C30 version.
This is based on spec information from Thunder Power on their current line of batteries.
Nick has told me that the motors would be the current control factor in the stock setup due to each motor would draw a max around 18A each.
Higher C rating allows you to pull more amps from the pack. A 20C 3S 5000 pack will let you draw 100 amps. More than enough with the motors included in the quad kit.
C rating won't increase run time just allows for a hotter setup. The mAh value increase run time.
Use this equation ((C x mAh )/(1000)) = Max Amp draw.
The kit motors use around 20 amps each. So you need a pack that can handle 80 amps.
Your talking about the charging C and yes Thunder Power have the capability to charge up to 8C of the mAh value. So faster turn around is possible.
But why?
I would recommend save the money and buy cheaper Lipos.
Something like a Turnigy pack 3S 5000 25C costs like $30. You can get 4 packs for the cost of 1 3S 5000 mAh 45C Thunder Power pack.
You would charge a pack as your using the others. And if a pack craps out you still have the other 3.
I want to keep the weight of the battery around the same as my current 30C 4400mAh 3S, it would be great for it to be around the same mesurements due to I would like to keep it under the HoverFly board mount.
I am just looking around to increase flight time and turn around time, I travel a lot and when I am home I get limited chances to pratice flying it.
Your talking about the charging C and yes Thunder Power have the capability to charge up to 8C of the mAh value. So faster turn around is possible.
But why?
I would recommend save the money and buy cheaper Lipos.
Something like a Turnigy pack 3S 5000 25C costs like $30. You can get 4 packs for the cost of 1 3S 5000 mAh 45C Thunder Power pack.
You would charge a pack as your using the others. And if a pack craps out you still have the other 3.
Good news everyone! The protective plates over the control board work very well! Mine got completely crushed in my crash today, and the Hoverfly seems perfectly intact and fully functional.
... Does Parallax sell just the plates and hardware for the control board casing? I think I may also need a couple of new motors. At least one is obviously bent and the other seems to have picked up a vibration. I'll not be flying for a while.
Well, I fixed up the quad but perhaps the board was damaged. It passes all diags from the hoverfly setup tool, but when I take off it will suddenly rev up an engine (not always the same one) and flip. I've double-triple checked the rotation of all my motors and props. The only strange thing I noticed in the setup tool is that while the artificial horizon responds properly when moving the board, it will snap back to level if I leave the board motionless in any orientation. I cannot remember if that is normal.
@ Eggplant,
You have probably alread done this, but check all of your ESC connections. This is a common thing when ESC's are swapped with one another, and in the wrong location. As for the motors, have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them out. This will not only get any durt and debris out of the motor casing, but when you put it back together, it will re-align the magnets and tends to fix beat up motors. I have done this a few times *cough*, and it fixes the issue about 9 out of 10 times.
I'm the new guy around here, just wanted to pop in and say hello. I just got my Quad 8 it was my Christmas gift to myself, going to start assembly this weekend. I have a lot of experience on the electro mechanical side of things so I'm not expecting to much difficulty in that regard. I have aboslutly no experience on the RC or the programming side of things which is kind of why I got this in the 1st place, hopefully I can learn some new stuff along the way.
If you're new to RC, you might want to get a flight simulator. A quadcopter is a bit easier to fly than a helicopter but it's still hard.
In post #10 of my index, I've collected some links to forum threads about the ELEV-8. One of the links is to a thread about flight simulators. Using a flight simulator will save you a lot of grief.
I purchased an ELEV-8 as a gift for my adult son and am trying to make sure he has everything he needs to fly. I see the recommendation to purchase either a Spektrum DX6 or Spektrum DX8 2.4 gHz radio. I have two questions on this: It seems like there are many less expensive 6 channel radios available on hobby sites...is this one essential or can you safely go with something cheaper for a first-timer? Also, it seems like there are so many different versions of these available: "2 Mode Transmitter", "Full Range without Servo", "Microlite Mode 2", "Transmitter Only", "Receiver"...and on and on...can you give any further guidance on a good radio to get started with? Do you need both transmitter and receiver, and are these commonly sold together or separate?
I purchased an ELEV-8 as a gift for my adult son and am trying to make sure he has everything he needs to fly. I see the recommendation to purchase either a Spektrum DX6 or Spektrum DX8 2.4 gHz radio. I have two questions on this: It seems like there are many less expensive 6 channel radios available on hobby sites...is this one essential or can you safely go with something cheaper for a first-timer? Also, it seems like there are so many different versions of these available: "2 Mode Transmitter", "Full Range without Servo", "Microlite Mode 2", "Transmitter Only", "Receiver"...and on and on...can you give any further guidance on a good radio to get started with? Do you need both transmitter and receiver, and are these commonly sold together or separate?
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure there are a lot of less expensive radios that should work fine with the ELEV-8. You do want a "Mode 2" transmitter if you live in North America. The "mode" indicates which stick controls which channels on an aircraft. Mode 2 has the throttle and rudder on the left stick with aileron and elevator on the right. Most fullsized aircraft have the ailerons and elevators combined in one control so I think it makes sense to do the same on a RC aircraft.
You do want both a transmitter and receiver and I think you want at least five channels to control the ELEV-8. HobbyKing sells the Turnigy 9X which should be able to control the ELEV-8. I haven't used the 9X myself, but I've read it's a good radio for the price. There may be someone else around here that has used a HobbyKing transmitter that could comment about the 9X or other transmitters that would work well with the ELEV-8.
You're also going to need at least one LiPo battery and a charger. HobbyKing sells both of these. There was some discussion about batteries in this thread.
Comments
The hoverfly docs say that you should only connect one power wire from the ESCs. (See page 37 of the hoverfly manual) However, in the builds I've looked at online, I see people just leaving all three wires connected to the mini plugs. Is this safe? If not, what's the best way to tie off the power wires?
I have forgotten what that reason is...
Al
I am looking at 45C type batteries, same weight but higher storage current, if they are ok should mean longer flights (more fun
C rating won't increase run time just allows for a hotter setup. The mAh value increase run time.
Use this equation ((C x mAh )/(1000)) = Max Amp draw.
The kit motors use around 20 amps each. So you need a pack that can handle 80 amps.
Turnigy 2217/20
Prop\Watts\RPM\Amps\Thrust
APC slo 11x4.7\210\6600\19.5\37oz
APC slo 11X3.8\175\7200\15\33.5oz
APC thin E 11X5.5\175\7500\15\33.5oz
What is the thrust using the 10x4.7 props that Parallax shipped with. I need to calculate how heavy a battery to purchase for my flight systems, telemetry systems, FPV system and Camcorder. What is the total weight that the my custom ELEV-8 can weigh with the 10x4.7 porpellers?
With the 11x4.7 propellers I know that I cannot exceed 4.625lbs because my total thrust is 9.25lbs
Great little estimator for flying "things".
I am looking at higher storage 5000mA & 6500mA over my current 4400mA battery this sould yeild longer flying times due to the C45's 5000mA is close to the same weight and size as the 4400mA C30 version.
This is based on spec information from Thunder Power on their current line of batteries.
Nick has told me that the motors would be the current control factor in the stock setup due to each motor would draw a max around 18A each.
But why?
I would recommend save the money and buy cheaper Lipos.
Something like a Turnigy pack 3S 5000 25C costs like $30. You can get 4 packs for the cost of 1 3S 5000 mAh 45C Thunder Power pack.
You would charge a pack as your using the others. And if a pack craps out you still have the other 3.
I want to keep the weight of the battery around the same as my current 30C 4400mAh 3S, it would be great for it to be around the same mesurements due to I would like to keep it under the HoverFly board mount.
I am just looking around to increase flight time and turn around time, I travel a lot and when I am home I get limited chances to pratice flying it.
... Does Parallax sell just the plates and hardware for the control board casing? I think I may also need a couple of new motors. At least one is obviously bent and the other seems to have picked up a vibration. I'll not be flying for a while.
Any ideas?
You have probably alread done this, but check all of your ESC connections. This is a common thing when ESC's are swapped with one another, and in the wrong location. As for the motors, have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them out. This will not only get any durt and debris out of the motor casing, but when you put it back together, it will re-align the magnets and tends to fix beat up motors. I have done this a few times *cough*, and it fixes the issue about 9 out of 10 times.
I found my error. I had numbered the ESC connections when disassembling, but somehow managed to swap the front ESCs. No wonder it was flipping over.
It is not often said and may be useful.
I find a bit hard to put back the small clip on the axel : where did you find the right tool to do it ?
Honest mistake, Eggplant! You're not the first (and won't be the last) who pushed instead of pulled.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmlsb/228428783
I'm the new guy around here, just wanted to pop in and say hello. I just got my Quad 8 it was my Christmas gift to myself, going to start assembly this weekend. I have a lot of experience on the electro mechanical side of things so I'm not expecting to much difficulty in that regard. I have aboslutly no experience on the RC or the programming side of things which is kind of why I got this in the 1st place, hopefully I can learn some new stuff along the way.
If you're new to RC, you might want to get a flight simulator. A quadcopter is a bit easier to fly than a helicopter but it's still hard.
In post #10 of my index, I've collected some links to forum threads about the ELEV-8. One of the links is to a thread about flight simulators. Using a flight simulator will save you a lot of grief.
It seems like there are many less expensive 6 channel radios available on hobby sites...is this one essential or can you safely go with something cheaper for a first-timer?
Also, it seems like there are so many different versions of these available: "2 Mode Transmitter", "Full Range without Servo", "Microlite Mode 2", "Transmitter Only", "Receiver"...and on and on...can you give any further guidance on a good radio to get started with? Do you need both transmitter and receiver, and are these commonly sold together or separate?
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure there are a lot of less expensive radios that should work fine with the ELEV-8. You do want a "Mode 2" transmitter if you live in North America. The "mode" indicates which stick controls which channels on an aircraft. Mode 2 has the throttle and rudder on the left stick with aileron and elevator on the right. Most fullsized aircraft have the ailerons and elevators combined in one control so I think it makes sense to do the same on a RC aircraft.
You do want both a transmitter and receiver and I think you want at least five channels to control the ELEV-8. HobbyKing sells the Turnigy 9X which should be able to control the ELEV-8. I haven't used the 9X myself, but I've read it's a good radio for the price. There may be someone else around here that has used a HobbyKing transmitter that could comment about the 9X or other transmitters that would work well with the ELEV-8.
You're also going to need at least one LiPo battery and a charger. HobbyKing sells both of these. There was some discussion about batteries in this thread.