@goofybud16 - Please read the link given by kf4ixm. You'll see that this forum is about much more than just uploading code. You're expected to provide a description of your project including schematics (or at least a detailed description of the hardware) and code, enough so someone else can duplicate it. If you just want to announce what you've done, you could post a message in the Stamp or SX or Propeller forum, whatever is appropriate. People will ask you to post a complete description here because they're interested, but, if you're unwilling to do the work, at least you'll have posted the announcement in the right place.
By the way, please don't post uncommented code. It's not very helpful without at least some general comments about what various I/O pins are used for and what the program does.
Here is a better schematic and code with commenting. on the schematic, at the top where the bi color led is, the plus is always the opposite side of the flat side on a round LED. The new schematic is here now. It should have been 10 K Ohm resistors.
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goofybud16
Post Edited (goofybud16) : 1/17/2010 4:55:08 PM GMT
Thank you for the schematic and updated code. A couple of comments on the schematic:
For the Red, Yellow, and Green unidirectional LEDs, what you did is fine, but, if you're tight on I/O pins, you don't need two I/O pins per LED. You could connect the cathodes to ground, the anodes to their 470 Ohm resistors, and the other end of the resistors to the associated I/O pin, then make the I/O pin high to turn it on.
On the pushbutton parts of the schematic, did you mean a 10K Ohm instead of a 10 Ohm resistor? A 10 Ohm resistor would be way too low, would let nearly 500mA flow through the switch when closed, would cause damage to the switch contacts and the resistor, and would drain the battery quickly.
Comments
Read this...
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=775521
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goofybud16
Post Edited (goofybud16) : 1/16/2010 4:00:56 AM GMT
By the way, please don't post uncommented code. It's not very helpful without at least some general comments about what various I/O pins are used for and what the program does.
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goofybud16
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goofybud16
Post Edited (goofybud16) : 1/17/2010 4:55:08 PM GMT
For the Red, Yellow, and Green unidirectional LEDs, what you did is fine, but, if you're tight on I/O pins, you don't need two I/O pins per LED. You could connect the cathodes to ground, the anodes to their 470 Ohm resistors, and the other end of the resistors to the associated I/O pin, then make the I/O pin high to turn it on.
On the pushbutton parts of the schematic, did you mean a 10K Ohm instead of a 10 Ohm resistor? A 10 Ohm resistor would be way too low, would let nearly 500mA flow through the switch when closed, would cause damage to the switch contacts and the resistor, and would drain the battery quickly.
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PG
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goofybud16