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Best Way to Prevent Reversed Polarity — Parallax Forums

Best Way to Prevent Reversed Polarity

SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
edited 2007-12-07 04:35 in General Discussion
What is the best way to make sure that if someone hooks 12v up to a 12 v circuit that it doesn't get damaged if the polarity is reversed. Let's assume that the connectors are not polarized to physically prevent it.

Comments

  • QuattroRS4QuattroRS4 Posts: 916
    edited 2007-12-05 17:40
    a diode in series with your +Vin.

    assumong that 12v is applied the diode will cause a forward biased voltage drop of approx 0.7v - not an issue if you are just supplying a reg. after that ... or 11.3v·may be perfectly·acceptable.

    rgds,
    John

    edit: made circuit a bit more accurate ...

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    Post Edited (QuattroRS4) : 12/5/2007 6:04:51 PM GMT
    872 x 416 - 32K
  • LoopyBytelooseLoopyByteloose Posts: 12,537
    edited 2007-12-05 17:50
    Well, if you need a voltage regulator anyway, use an LM2940-5 which is a five volt output or LM2940-12 for twelve volts which has internal reversal protection along with that wonderful low drop out feature.·

    Not all regulators do provided this feature, but·protection is quite common as a feature·for automotic automotive electronics because some mechanic is likely to put a set of battery cables on wrong and blow out everything unprotected.

    I have tried reversed·diodes·across the inputs, but... without a fuse they just burn up on the first error and leave the circuit available to harm on the second go around. You can put a fuse in line with them and have the diode rated higher amps than the fuse, but the same problem is still there if you don't inspect the fuse before turning on power.

    I have put diodes in line which work fine, but... you get an additional 0.7 voltage drop and a waste of more batteries. It is okay for wall warts though.

    And just using tiny 250ma fuses in line [noparse][[/noparse]and hoping they will blow before serious damage occurs] are absurd because they add enough resistance to cause a voltage drop and they blow at the slightest error.

    I hope that helps. I really like the LM2940-x much better than the 78xx regulator.· Read·its·PDF.




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    Do you want a quickly operational black box solution or the knowledge included therein?······
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    Post Edited (Kramer) : 12/9/2007 9:12:34 AM GMT
  • adriftadrift Posts: 25
    edited 2007-12-05 18:02
    I agree. Douglas Self (amplifier guy) notes that the semiconductors readily "lay down their life" for the fuses if they're in the wrong place.

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    Regards,
    Jim
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2007-12-05 18:18
    There's no one "right" solution. The answer to your question depends on how much current your circuit draws, whether a regulator is involved, and how much of a voltage drop can be tolerated in the protection circuitry. Here are some options:

    1. If everything runs off a regulator, use one that's reverse voltage protected, as noted above.

    2. If you can tolerate a 1.2V drop, use a bridge rectifier to "right" the polarity.

    3. If you can tolerate only a 0.6V drop, use a series diode.

    4. If you can't tolerate any drop, use a fuse or polyfuse (PTC thermistor) in series with a hefty diode wired "backwards" across the voltage input.

    5. If the operating current is low enough, an incandescent lamp in place of the fuse in #4 also works.

    -Phil

    Addendum: 6. Use a p-channel MOSFET as described here.

    Post Edited (Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)) : 12/5/2007 6:27:25 PM GMT
  • SailerManSailerMan Posts: 337
    edited 2007-12-05 18:32
    I guess I should be more forthcoming with my questions.. I am using a 12 volt battery to power a home made dual output switching regulator. I just want to make sure the board survives a reversed 12V connection. It might not even be nesessary.

    Here is my Schematic.

    http://forums.parallax.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50114
  • Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514
    edited 2007-12-05 18:54
    Since you're using switching regulators, I assume that efficiency is of paramount importance. That would rule out the bridge and series rectifier solutions, leaving the shunt and MOSFET methods in play. Take your pick.

    -Phil
  • steve_bsteve_b Posts: 1,563
    edited 2007-12-05 20:04
    Looking at your schematic....a reverse connection will result in some smoke and a pop from that capacitor.

    Looks like you could use a diode bridge and not worry about the voltage drop.

    There's lots of high end equipment that is not reverse polarity protected...well, it is...but in a low-tech way!
    Use a connector that doesn't allow for an improper connection (don't use those headphone type single jacks with the tips and collars....use a multi-pin molex connector of some type).

    cheers

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    <FONT>Steve



    What's the best thing to do in a lightning storm? "take a one iron out the bag and hold it straight up above your head, even God cant hit a one iron!"
    Lee Travino after the second time being hit by lightning!
  • QuattroRS4QuattroRS4 Posts: 916
    edited 2007-12-05 20:15
    If it is the likes of a car battery - lead acid or other supplying the circuit then since the cells naturally produce about 2.1 V, the actual voltage is roughly 12.6 V. which means that a forward biased diode voltage drop will have little effect ...

    Then looking at your schematic the 12v supply is not used else where merely as a supply to lm2575 regulators which have a stated input range from 7-40v ... so a simple series diode would work - however since these regulators can supply 1amp each - ensure that the current capabilities of the chosen series diode is sufficiently large enough..


    Rgds,
    John

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    'Necessity is the mother of invention'
  • metron9metron9 Posts: 1,100
    edited 2007-12-07 04:35
    I'm with Phil on this one. I use the poly fuse in series with the positive terminal·and a diode across the input terminals since I have a solar panel on the design as well the revers diode in series was not an option. You should have some poly fuses anyway for general breadboarding as it can save you from smoke if (when) wires get crossed. The poly fuse basically protects the diode from burning up when the voltage is reversed and it also protects you main board from currents over the polyfuse threshold even when the lines are connected correctly.

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    Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
    Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
    Think outside the BOX!

    Post Edited (metron9) : 12/7/2007 4:41:49 AM GMT
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