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Soldering components — Parallax Forums

Soldering components

Michael PopoloskiMichael Popoloski Posts: 42
edited 2007-02-27 17:51 in Propeller 1
How are you supposed to solder components that have large leads? I purchased some things from Jameco the other day, never realizing that not only will they not work with a breadboard, they also won't fit into any soldering boards from Radio Shack that I have lying around. How are people supposed to use them?

Comments

  • ForrestForrest Posts: 1,341
    edited 2007-02-27 00:29
    How large? How about posting a link to the datasheet for your large device
  • mahjonggmahjongg Posts: 141
    edited 2007-02-27 01:07
    These must be really large components, normal resistors, (for example) have leads that can be easily pushed into a breadboard.

    When you have leads that are too thick to directly push into a breadboard (or into the 1mm holes of standard soldering boards), you would normally solder a short end of solid copper wire to them, the other ends of which -can- be pushed into the breadboard. For example the LM7805 voltage regulators (in a TO220 housing) often have pins that are too thick for a breadboard, and then the solution is to solder short wire ends to the three pins.

    Radio Shack should have some "doorbell" wire with massive copper core that should be suitable

    Mahjongg
  • Paul BakerPaul Baker Posts: 6,351
    edited 2007-02-27 03:26
    I once had a diode lead that was too big to fit into a breadboard. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to form them into a smaller diameter wire. This is done by crimping just the tip (last mm or 2), then partially crimp at a right angle to the original crimp so it becomes square lead, repeat this bit by bit until enough of the wire is formed to insert it into the hole.

    An·alternative with perf board is to ream the hole with a drill bit or reamer.

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  • parts-man73parts-man73 Posts: 830
    edited 2007-02-27 03:58
    There again, we'd need to know what type of components we are talking about.

    I had a problem when I received the circuit boards for the first prototype SpinStudio. I used someone else's library for a DC Power Jack. The leads on these are wide and flat. The widest being 3 mm. The Library that this person created only had small, regular sized holes.

    To make a large story short.... One of the tools in my electronic toolbox is a Dremel. With a flat disc type attachment, it's easy to make large diameter leads smaller.

    Also....here's a hint for you guys. If you shave enough off a standard RCA jack, you can get it into the holes in a Proto Board and solder it securely. (see pictures for proof that it can be done) next I'm going to get a stereo jack on there and some small amps, and I'll have myself a poor-man's demo-board! yeah.gif

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  • Michael PopoloskiMichael Popoloski Posts: 42
    edited 2007-02-27 12:26
    The components themselves aren't extremely large, and neither are the leads. They are just big enough where they won't fit into the board. Here is an example of one of the components:

    http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=101178

    Some of the other components include the RCA connectors and PS/'2 connectors.

    It just seems kinda silly that they would make them just big enough to not fit. They could make them a tiny bit smaller to work with more applications.
  • ForrestForrest Posts: 1,341
    edited 2007-02-27 12:48
    Most of the time I've purchased power jacks that can be installed thru a case with a nut. You can buy RCA jacks (1, 2, 3 or 4) that are mounted to a board - I've installed thru holes in a case and attached with small screws/nuts.

    The reason many of these connectors have large leads is for mechanical strength.
  • BergamotBergamot Posts: 185
    edited 2007-02-27 14:16
    Michael Popoloski said...
    The components themselves aren't extremely large, and neither are the leads. They are just big enough where they won't fit into the board. Here is an example of one of the components:


    http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=101178



    Some of the other components include the RCA connectors and PS/'2 connectors.

    It just seems kinda silly that they would make them just big enough to not fit. They could make them a tiny bit smaller to work with more applications.

    Pretty sure those are designed to be connected with wire; that's why the plugs have holes, so you can tie the wire on there.

    Radio Shack stocks about a million of those, and almost no breadboardable components. Kinda sucks.
  • Michael PopoloskiMichael Popoloski Posts: 42
    edited 2007-02-27 16:13
    Ok, so the possible options for these components are:

    - try to shave them down into a manageable size

    - solder wires onto each lead

    - drill your own holes in a board and solder them to it



    Looks like the best solution would be the second option, except that I am not very good with a soldering iron. Wish me luck.
  • mahjonggmahjongg Posts: 141
    edited 2007-02-27 17:09
    Buy a bunch of those wires with crocodile clips on both ends, and push an end of wire (cut from a leaded resistor for example) into a hole of the breadboard. Now simply clip on a crocodile clip onto one of the pins op the power jack and clip the other crocodile clip to the end of wire you have pushed into the breadboard.

    Et voila....
    No soldering involved!

    Tandy should have these leads.

    Mahjongg.
  • HarleyHarley Posts: 997
    edited 2007-02-27 17:51
    Michael Popoloski,

    I too had the problem of 'too big' leads.

    I needed a connector for TV out, so I salvaged some RCA audio type connectors from
    an old game unit. Soldered wires at right angles to the two leads for the video signal
    and ground and connected them to the ProtoBoard.
    Used two clear flat 'rubber feet' to raise the module above the board, stuck to the module.
    And some AWG22 solid wire to tie it down to the board. Soldered one end of the wire,
    snug it well around the module body, feed the other end through a pad hole and solder.
    It is fairly solid, if I'm careful when plug/unplugging the cable.

    Didn't want to kill the time to search for a thru-hole part and wait shipping. Kludge works.

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