HDMI Display Experiences

potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 9,957
edited 2019-12-11 - 03:54:36 in Propeller 2
The 1 mA drive Chip did seems to work on some displays and not others:
pgm_hdmi setcmod #$100 'enable HDMI mode
drvl #7<<6 + hdmi_base 'enable HDMI pins
wrpin ##%001001<<8,#7<<6 + hdmi_base 'set 1 mA drive on HDMI pins

I looked a little P2 time this evening and could not find where we had mentioned a few options. I will look again, but am out of time to test at the moment. I am doing some travel on business right now and will be sending HDMI to various hotel sets. Why not?

I am hoping this thread can be a reference over time. If you had one work, what did your setup look like, and what didn't work, and what display are all things we may benefit from over time. Maybe we can zero in on a more universal HDMI setup.

This set is an LG, LCD. I don't have a model number. This baby appears to be a hotel special. No direct controls on the set. It just comes on, set to default picture parameters and HDMI input 1. I am pretty sure a universal remote would still work. I plan on carrying one in the future. The supplied one won't even allow for another input.

My P2 acts odd when this set is connected, almost as if I've got an unknown loop with unknown potential, or the set simply draws too much. I am on my laptop USB power, which is totally enough for a couple COGS.

That's enough for now, just know that 1mA drive isn't universal. I'll update this with the other proposed HDMI configuration options when I find them, unless one of you does first.

Please use this thread to share HDMI display success or failure experiences.



Comments

  • Did you apply the 5v signal onto the HDMI connector? Thats what I found was needed to get my TCL to display. However its not a cure-all

    Funny about the hotel room testing, I did that a bit with P2-Hot's composite output a few years back. I can't remember any not working
  • potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 9,957
    edited 2019-12-11 - 04:10:26
    No. That is probably it.

    Do I do that with a simple jumper? If so, I need to solder a header pin and prepare a wire for the next go around. This was my first P2 enabled trip. It sure is nice to have a brand new Propeller to hack on during in room downtimes. And, like I had way back in the day on P1, I have a fair number of them at this time. Fun days again! I just did some work via serial this time. No worries.

    I need to keep it ultra simple for now. Can't carry a lot of gear.

    I see ACC HDR 5V on the board near the programming USB port. Is that +5 as simple as a jumper from that pin, (the one right under "5V", and the 5V pad on the HDMI board?

    I did the same. The HOT chip, with it's multiple clock domains put out a sweeeet signal. (Though I think we are getting back to that now that the timing beat frequency is well understood) Composite has never not worked for me. Even really fringe, or abusive driver signals displayed on every hotel set I ever tried.



  • Yeah thats the link. I used a 1kohm just as a precaution, i found 10kohm and above didn't trigger
    I'll post a pic in a sec

    I think it would be fine to do with a direct wire
  • pic showing 1k link
    3456 x 4608 - 400K
  • Oh, it's right there. Doh! I saw that. Didn't process. I'll have that as an option next go around.

    Thanks!
  • If you have a bit of wire I'd poke it in the 5v hole, then see whether touching it on the 5v rail (either on the dig video out board or the 5v jumper on the P2ES board)

    Also make sure the 5v jumper is in place, it won't let 5v through if open circuit like how Parallax ships it
  • Tubular wrote: »
    Yeah thats the link. I used a 1kohm just as a precaution, i found 10kohm and above didn't trigger
    I'll post a pic in a sec

    I think it would be fine to do with a direct wire

    I'm not sure a direct wire is ideal. Best to stick to a lowish resistor to avoid any surprises.
  • TubularTubular Posts: 3,836
    edited 2019-12-11 - 04:44:59
    Maybe try it on HDMI3 input? Leaving HDMI1 pristine for the other hotel guests?

    I did test with a resistance wheel which went down to low values

  • roglohrogloh Posts: 1,789
    edited 2019-12-11 - 05:08:43
    @potatohead, Here are two other options to try for HDMI...I use the second one successfully on several monitors. The first only works on some but is very safe.

    wrpin ##%111001<<8, a 'uncomment for float high, 1.5k low

    wrpin ##%10110_1111_0111_10_00000_0, a '123 ohm BITDAC for pins
  • Thanks for the other configuration options @rogloh

    I will have another shot at this display on a later trip. Didn't have a resistor with me, so I skipped the attempt this time.

    @Tubular Without a universal remote, I've got no HDMI input selection. This set just comes on and does what it does and is connected to some hotel client type TV box.


  • Clearly we also need a universal remote IR led board that can plug into the P2ES @VonSzarvas
  • Totally!

  • Tubular wrote: »
    Clearly we also need a universal remote IR led board that can plug into the P2ES @VonSzarvas

    Added to the list! Thanks Tubular.

    Maybe we can squeeze an IR LED onto an existing board somewhere....
  • Repurpose the I/O used for the four LEDs on the push-button control board, those buttons would also server as remote controls for the IR.
  • Thats a good idea Evanh
  • Tried to connect P2 to brand new TV and it won't recognize the signal.
    This is the TV: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-32-class-led-720p-smart-hdtv-fire-tv-edition/6247254.p?skuId=6247254

    I'll try adding the 5V signal and see if that helps...
  • I have been successful using 1ma drive and optional +5V signal.

    So far, monitors have not needed the +5. Some TVs have.
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