My most recent project: A remote controlled living room lamp.
This was done using a Propeller chip to control a TLC5940 LED driver, and is one of my first "fully complete" projects.
The circuit was designed in DipTrace. The PCB was cut with my CNC machine using isolation routing paths output from DipTrace. As coded, it can be controlled using the volume and channel buttons on any Sony TV remote.
The LED driver is written in PASM using BrillDea's SPIN driver as a starting point. The driver is unique in that it's the first I've seen in PASM, and it properly handshakes between the cog running the PWM clock and the cog doing data transmission. This avoids the single frame flicker that happens if you latch in new data during the PWM cycle. I haven't timed it, but the GS cog should run roughly 1500fps & 80MHz (4096 ticks, 3 instructions each), and the data update cog about 10x faster (~10 instructions per bit, 192 bits).
The Sony Remote code is Jon McPhalen's SIRCS object.
For physical construction, the shade is made of a 4' x 2' sheet of thin HDPE, the ends are garbage cans from Target, the central column is 1" PVC from Home Depot, and the "caps" are custom routed 1/2" UHMW plastic.
The LEDs are 16 foot-long sections of a 16 foot 12v LED strip, purchased from Amazon. The LEDs are spiral-wrapped around the PVC column at even intervals, and all the channel wires are run through the tube.
Each LED strip is run at 120ma, which is the maximum rated sink current for the TLC lighting chip. The power supply is a common 2A @ 12v / 5v switching supply, usually used for external hard drives. I currently don't do anything clever like disable cogs or lower the clock rate when the lamp is "off", though I plan to. Current use is 1920ma at full power (calculated, not measured), with a small amount of additional power for the brain.
It's a little brighter than a 100 watt light bulb, but only uses 24 watts at full brightness.
I have included full source, as well as the schematic and board layout for DipTrace, as well as a simple GIF of the schematic. The code is heavily commented and should be pretty easy to follow. Comments welcome on the code and schematic - particularly the latter, as this is one of my first "real" projects.