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Bill Henning
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  		   Posted 11/5/2009 3:11 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
That is exactly what I got!

With the PCB tabs labeled as Pin 1-6, 7-12 on other side.

OakGraphics said...
mikediv said...
Guys if you bought eh blue cables with the molded plastic end RS-232 to USB they work just fine but its a mother to take apart I took a razor blade and slowly shaved down the plastic until I could pull it apart the DB9 comes off and you will see all the markings on the circuit board RX, TX, DTR, they are all labeled clearly ...


Not quite - these ones are slightly different - they have 6 pinouts on each side and have no markings for RX, TX, but rather 1 through 12.
I can tone-out what the 3 soldered connections are, but where that darn DTR pin is, I might be at a loss. :-)

www.mikronauts.com Please use mikronauts _at_ gmail _dot_ com to contact me off-forum, my PM is almost totally full
Morpheusdual Prop SBC w/ 512KB kit $119.95, Mem+2MB memory IO board kit $89.95, both kits $189.95
Propteus and Proteus for Propeller prototyping 6.250MHz custom Crystals run Propellers at 100MHz
Las - Large model assembler for the Propeller Largos - a feature full nano operating system for the Propeller

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mikediv
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  		   Posted 11/5/2009 5:21 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
OakGraphics I see that is not like any of the 2 different kinds of cables I have , the closest thin is this one it has 5 connectors on one side and 4 on the other but they are clearly marked
I can strip one all the way down if you think that will help you out let me know maybe the other side is of this is closer the what you need?
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Bamse
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  		   Posted 11/5/2009 7:04 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
I'm glad you guys putting this hack into work... ;-)

An earlier post asked if I was interested to put this programmer together for Gadget Gangster and the short answer is no...
However if anyone is interested in doing that, please go ahead, it would be a nice addition to Gadget gangster...
Just one disclaimer, I didn't design the reset circuitry, I found it in an earlier post in the original thread...

Living on the planet Earth might be expensive but it includes a free trip around the sun every year...

Experience level:
[ ] Let's connect the motor to pin 1, it's a 6V motor so it should be fine.
[ ] OK, I got my resistors hooked up with the LEDs.
[X] I got the Motor hooked up with the H-bridge and the 555 is supplying the PWM.
[ ] Now, if I can only program the BOE-BOT to interface with he Flux Capacitor.
[ ] I dream in SX28 assembler...

/Bamse

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OakGraphics
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  		   Posted 11/5/2009 8:44 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
mikediv said...
OakGraphics I see that is not like any of the 2 different kinds of cables I have , the closest thin is this one it has 5 connectors on one side and 4 on the other but they are clearly marked
I can strip one all the way down if you think that will help you out let me know maybe the other side is of this is closer the what you need?


I wouldent worry about it. Because the driver came on a mini-cd, I can't install the driver till I transfer it to a flash drive. (I have a slot loading laptop)
Once I put the driver over, I will be able to try some more testing to find out where the DTR pin is.
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OakGraphics
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  		   Posted 11/5/2009 10:10 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Propability said...
To find the ground of course would be the first thing to do and most likely it is the low resistance path to the metal sheild of the USB connector.

How to find DTR? Well first of all the device should be recognized by your system so the drivers need to be installed and the device recognized with no errors.

For windows I use Brays terminal which allows me to toggle the DTR line.
 
Thanks for the pointer. I downloaded Brays  terminal and was able to find the DTR pin very quick!
 
PIN-OUT of the "12 PIN" type:
USB Board wire color  function                nokia plug
PIN 06    ORANGE      GND                     pin 8
PIN 04    RED         RS232-3v phone TX data  pin 7
Pin 12    blue        RS232-3v Phone RX Data  pin 6
Pin 11                DTR
PIN 10                RTS
 
I noticed that DTR and RTS are about 3.3v when not active, and go to 0V when I toggled them on.
I guess this version only needs the two caps.
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Propability
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  		   Posted 11/6/2009 9:12 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Glad to help.

I'm still wondering why the need for the cap on the data (RX) line. Mine work fine without. If something is buggy and probing it with a scope makes it work then there is something else wrong. Just try it first without the cap on the data line.

I've also got one that I put a 1K resistor in series with the data(RX) line and used it to communicate with a 5volt device (mega168) and was able to do a reset of it ( a la arduino) with the reset line . Don't know if the chips used are 5volt tolerant so I didn't want to risk it. This also allowed me to use it for comm's with my SX's. Just marked it with a big "5" so I knew which one to use.
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mikediv
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  		   Posted 11/6/2009 5:00 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Propability Do I understand ? Can you program the SX chip without a Key using one of these cables?
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Propability
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  		   Posted 11/6/2009 5:35 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

No SX programming capability Mikediv, just serial comms with a system that is running at 5 volts versus the Prop at 3.3 volts ( the reason for the 1k resistor in series) . If I had a few more of these I might try and see if the chips can holdup to having 5volts on their inputs but the series resistor works so...

Still wondering about the need for the cap on the data line. Do you only have one board to check it with? Something else sharing that line? Mine work fine without the need for the data line cap so just has got my curiosity up.

 

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Bill Henning
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  		   Posted 11/6/2009 6:20 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Nice! I have not had time to buzz it out yet, now I don't have to!

Thanks :)

OakGraphics said...
Propability said...

To find the ground of course would be the first thing to do and most likely it is the low resistance path to the metal sheild of the USB connector.

How to find DTR? Well first of all the device should be recognized by your system so the drivers need to be installed and the device recognized with no errors.

For windows I use Brays terminal which allows me to toggle the DTR line.

Thanks for the pointer. I downloaded Brays terminal and was able to find the DTR pin very quick!

PIN-OUT of the "12 PIN" type:

USB Board wire color  function                nokia plug
PIN 06    ORANGE      GND                     pin 8
PIN 04    RED         RS232-3v phone TX data  pin 7 
Pin 12    blue        RS232-3v Phone RX Data  pin 6 
Pin 11                DTR
PIN 10                RTS 


 

I noticed that DTR and RTS are about 3.3v when not active, and go to 0V when I toggled them on.

I guess this version only needs the two caps.

www.mikronauts.com Please use mikronauts _at_ gmail _dot_ com to contact me off-forum, my PM is almost totally full
Morpheusdual Prop SBC w/ 512KB kit $119.95, Mem+2MB memory IO board kit $89.95, both kits $189.95
Propteus and Proteus for Propeller prototyping 6.250MHz custom Crystals run Propellers at 100MHz
Las - Large model assembler for the Propeller Largos - a feature full nano operating system for the Propeller

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mikediv
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  		   Posted 11/6/2009 7:15 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Propability that's to bad imagine if we could have a way to program the SX for just a few bucks Oh well wishful thinking I guess .. I have a total of 14 cables built now and I can not count how many different prop boards some I bought here ,Parallax propsticks proto board, I have 5 of Phils boards and I built a bunch myself even wire wrapped a few whole systems I did a design Jazzed shared with me for multiple props I have 5 on one board. every cable I built needed the extra cap . Don't get me wrong sometimes it will work without it but with the cap its rock solid Without the cap my scope shows quite a bit of hashing enough to cause it to be intermittent without the cap. I have a room in my house I took over as a kind of lab/office I have all kinds of test equipment a lot of it older units some even have tubes so I could be picking up noise from all the electronics . But a few people PM me asking for help and they to had to add the cap so I don't know where they are picking up noise , It also did not matter what computer I used Laptop desktop... I thought you did not have the same cables as the rest of us??
maybe the style I have also has somehting to do with it I can show you a scope trace if you would like to see it without the cap I don't have a fancy scope just a Tektronics unit so I will have to take a picture of my screen to show you. I was holding out for the prop scope
before I went digital
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MagIO2
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  		   Posted 11/9/2009 12:34 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ehm ... maybe I missed something, but why do you want to solder on that side of the plug?

Just cut off the Nokia plug and use the cable already attached. No need to open the molded plastic plug.
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OakGraphics
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  		   Posted 11/9/2009 1:16 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
MagIO2 said...
Ehm ... maybe I missed something, but why do you want to solder on that side of the plug?

Just cut off the Nokia plug and use the cable already attached. No need to open the molded plastic plug.


Good point, but this is not a passive cable and coming from different vendors who do different things. Some have 3 wires in the cable, some have 4, some have 5. Even the color of the internal cables are not guaranteed. Since we are toning out what pad on the usb break-out-board and extending the DTR to the other end - and replacing the cable with a 4-conductor cable instead of a 3-conductor cable, all the work is on the USB side.
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