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| Parallax Forums > Public Forums > Completed Projects > Cheap propeller programmer... | Forum Quick Jump
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Bamse
UFO Designer
      
Date Joined Jan 2006
Total Posts : 462
| Posted 10/21/2009 7:19 PM (GMT -8) |   | Howdy...
This is cheap Propeller programmer that came out of the discussion in the Propeller Forum...
forums.parallax.com/forums/default.aspx?f=25&m=390630
I used the Nokia cable from the thread, you can find the link right here,
cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370185543289
This is a Data Cable for Nokia 6101 6102 6102i 6103(CA--42).
Take it apart and add a 2N2222 or similar NPN Transistor, 2x10K (Brown Black Orange) resistors and a 10nF (103) cap.
The case comes apart pretty easy, cut the cable on the inside and pull out the cable to get the blue "cap".
Put a header on the ribbon cable and mark the "up" side.
On the programming header, the top one is the Ground, followed by Reset, Tx and Rx.
Note that I marked the ground wire with a black marker.
Flat side up, solder the two resistor to the Base and Emitter on your transistor.
Try to use as short leads as possible if you want the whole thing to fit in the case.
Hook up the ribbon cable. The bottom connection is the ground, unfortunately you cannot see the black marking I did on the cable.
The rest goes as in the picture, use the reference above to hook up the ribbon cable.
Collector goes to Reset on ribbon cable and add a ground wire to Emitter. The ground wire is kind of hard to see but it is the small blue wire in the picture.
Add cap to the resistors and the DTR on the plug. Notice that I lay the Transistor on the side and bent it a bit, I had to do that to make it fit in the case. Be careful not to disconnect the little red wire from DTR, I don't know if it works without it, but better safe than sorry.
Make it fit in the case, it can be a bit tricky but keep in mind that the transistor is laying on it's side.
Don't squeeze the lid on, it should snap on without a problem.
Hook up to Propeller.
Test it. I put some electrical tape around the plug to hold it together...
Have fun a and keep in mind that these are so cheap that you can make a few and give to your friends so they can get started with the Propeller... 
Living on the planet Earth might be expensive but it includes a free trip around the sun every year...
Experience level:
[ ] Let's connect the motor to pin 1, it's a 6V motor so it should be fine.
[ ] OK, I got my resistors hooked up with the LEDs.
[X] I got the Motor hooked up with the H-bridge and the 555 is supplying the PWM.
[ ] Now, if I can only program the BOE-BOT to interface with he Flux Capacitor.
[ ] I dream in SX28 assembler...
/Bamse | | Back to Top | | |
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RobotWorkshop
Registered Member
Date Joined Aug 2006
Total Posts : 664
| Posted 10/22/2009 6:39 AM (GMT -8) | | Very cool project Bamse! Thanks for sharing it. One thing I have found useful is to keep some 103 caps, 4.7K, 10K resistors, and other assorted surface mount parts (1206 package) for projects just like this. They are a lot smaller and make it easier to squeeze in tight places like this. If you haven't tried them yet you may way to pickup some (they are cheap) and try it if you make another adapter.
Robert | | Back to Top | | |
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WBA Consulting
aestheticacoustics.com
Date Joined Nov 2007
Total Posts : 341
| Posted 10/22/2009 1:43 PM (GMT -8) | | | | |
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Propability
Registered Member
Date Joined Feb 2007
Total Posts : 91
| Posted 10/27/2009 5:43 PM (GMT -8) | | Using windoze so maybe will have to wait and see if someone gets theirs working on a win system. Not familiar with linux systems but does the Make or Manufacturer show up if one needed to know ? Might find the driver that way but for now I'm about done trying. So if anyone gets this working using windoze please respond.
Thanks for the reply. | | Back to Top | | |
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Propability
Registered Member
Date Joined Feb 2007
Total Posts : 91
| Posted 10/27/2009 7:25 PM (GMT -8) | | Yeah - I already tried the Prolific stuff which you would think was the right one from the Hack site. Although I only used the latest driver so maybe tomorrow I'll look into what else is out there for Prolific . Tried loading the Nokia software too but no luck.
There was no shipping charges for the ones I got and they arrived pretty quick. Once this windoze thing is resolved these will be nice usb interfaces. | | Back to Top | | |
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Propability
Registered Member
Date Joined Feb 2007
Total Posts : 91
| Posted 10/28/2009 10:26 AM (GMT -8) | | Ok got it working. The latest drivers from the Prolific site just did not work on my winxp or win2000 systems. After some looking around found an older driver and it works on both. So I'm going to see about getting this working.
Again thnx. | | Back to Top | | |
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mikediv
Registered Member
Date Joined Dec 2007
Total Posts : 455
| Posted 10/30/2009 2:56 PM (GMT -8) | | Bamse I have 2 cables the way you initially built your design with the transistor . Its a very good design and the reset comes in handy its a very stable solid way to go I only did the single cap as a quick and dirty way to get a bunch of cables going all at once
the 2 I have built using your circuit with the reset are permanently soldered to a project for controlling a ditch digger , they have a desktop system that services all there equipment mostly Can and I needed a reliable way to access the prop portion of the digger I hard wired the cable becuase they would loose it in a day plus you would not believe all the different cables they already have this way it stays with the machine , Bamse the reset is very nice I could never imagine how handy it would be until I needed it.
Thanks again guys I now have 12 cables built and working , which ever way you build one this can not be beat . The company does not charge for shipping so for 3 bucks you get a prop programmer not to many deals in life this is one.
Bamse just a thought have you ever thought about sending this to gadget gangster ?????? or selling them yourself just imagine a USB prop programmer for $8.00 dollars and you would still make a buck LOL
Thanks Guys | | Back to Top | | |
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OakGraphics
Registered Member
Date Joined Jun 2005
Total Posts : 144
| Posted 11/3/2009 9:32 AM (GMT -8) | | | Just a quick note - look at the cables you buy from ebay carefully. If you see four 'holes' in the connector, that is a mold injected hood and can not be easilly taken apart or put back together. ordered 3 by mistake myself. Still useable but much harder to manipulate. unfortunately - the item I bided on did not have the same picture as what was received, so I could not tell until they arrived. So - with that in mind, don't get from this vendor: "Seller info: topvshonw" | | Back to Top | | |
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Bill Henning
Registered Member
Date Joined Sep 2006
Total Posts : 962
| Posted 11/3/2009 1:05 PM (GMT -8) | | I got five of those in today, and not only are they difficult to take apart, the PCB is different - six pads on each side. GND, TX and RX are easy, but I'll have to buzz out which connections are DTR and/or RTS
OakGraphics said...
Just a quick note - look at the cables you buy from ebay carefully. If you see four 'holes' in the connector, that is a mold injected hood and can not be easilly taken apart or put back together. ordered 3 by mistake myself. Still useable but much harder to manipulate. unfortunately - the item I bided on did not have the same picture as what was received, so I could not tell until they arrived. So - with that in mind, don't get from this vendor: "Seller info: topvshonw"
www.mikronauts.com Please use mikronauts _at_ gmail _dot_ com to contact me off-forum, my PM is almost totally full
Morpheusdual Prop SBC w/ 512KB kit $119.95, Mem+2MB memory IO board kit $89.95, both kits $189.95
Propteus and Proteus for Propeller prototyping 6.250MHz custom Crystals run Propellers at 100MHz
Las - Large model assembler for the Propeller Largos - a feature full nano operating system for the Propeller | | Back to Top | | |
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mikediv
Registered Member
Date Joined Dec 2007
Total Posts : 455
| Posted 11/4/2009 12:33 PM (GMT -8) | | Guys if you bought eh blue cables with the molded plastic end RS-232 to USB they work just fine but its a mother to take apart I took a razor blade and slowly shaved down the plastic until I could pull it apart the DB9 comes off and you will see all the markings on the circuit board RX, TX, DTR, they are all labeled clearly you do not have to take the whole thing apart just the end dont be afraid to pull the DB9 connector end off it pulls right off and you only need access to the end of the circuit board I can take some pictures if you guys want to see
then I did the 1 cap mod the only problem I ran into is like Bam said I had to add a cap to Gnd and RX I had to do this for all my cables to work right | | Back to Top | | |
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RobotWorkshop
Registered Member
Date Joined Aug 2006
Total Posts : 664
| Posted 11/4/2009 2:17 PM (GMT -8) | | Keep in mind that if you just want to use this to connect a Propeller to a PC or MAC just to do serial data logging or communications then you don't have to worry about the DTR pin. Just cut of the end for the phone and use the GND, RX, and TX to connect to the prop. It is an extremely cheap way to enable a serial link like this.
Robert | | Back to Top | | |
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Propability
Registered Member
Date Joined Feb 2007
Total Posts : 91
| Posted 11/4/2009 5:44 PM (GMT -8) | | To find the ground of course would be the first thing to do and most likely it is the low resistance path to the metal sheild of the USB connector.
How to find DTR? Well first of all the device should be recognized by your system so the drivers need to be installed and the device recognized with no errors.
For windows I use Brays terminal which allows me to toggle the DTR line. Of course you must have the correct comm port selected (device manager knowledge very helpful).
So plug in the adapter ( I used a USB extender for easier access to the pads) and then I would toggle the DTR button in Brays and look for the change of state with the voltage setting on my ohmeter.
When I did mine I noticed DTR was sitting at about 3.3V when first plugged in so I knew that the cap only would work since the pupose of the transistor in the prop plug was as a signal inverter.
A high to low tranistion on the cap is what causes the reset to happen for simplicity sake.
Hope this helps.
Duck | | Back to Top | | |
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