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|  RichardF Registered Member
        Date Joined Mar 2007 Total Posts : 154 | Posted 2/24/2008 9:44 AM (GMT -8) |   |
I have just completed my BS2 controlled Submersible ROV (remotely operated vehicle) project in time for the spring lake thaw here in Michigan. My goal is to survey the bottom of lakes and look at neat fish. Some pictures are attached.
Here are the statistics:
Length 24 inches
Diameter of main tube 4 ½”
Material PVC
Weight with ballast 20 lbs
Internal battery 12V 3000mah NiMh
Microcontroller BS2
Motor and light controls (3) Parallax H-25’s
CCTV miniature television camera (12V)
This ROV is tethered to the surface with a 6 conductor Ethernet cable and nylon support line. It will be placed over the side of my boat and allowed to sink (buoyancy is adjustable with steel plates attached to the bottom of the main tube). Initially the tethered line is only 50 feet long.. Using the surface control console I am able to adjust left and right motor speeds forward and reverse (400 size electric RC brushed motors geared 6:1 and 3” diameter propellers cut down from electric RC props). Keeping the ROV fairly close to the boat I will be able to move it forward, backward and rotate it side to side. The control console has a 7” LCD monitor receiving signals from the TV camera mounted at the front of the main tube and viewing through ¼” polycarbonate plate. I have two 50 watt Halogen lights mounted on the forward top of the tube. I can control the intensity of the lights with a rheostat mounted in the surface control console. The lights are homemade using outdoor garden bulbs housed in 2” PVC with a polycarbonate plate lens.
Electronic control is straight forward using the PBasic RCTime command for all control functions. Five wires in the tether cable are connected to ground, TV monitor, lighting , left motor and right motor rheostats. The microcontroller just reads the resistance readings of the rheostats, converts that to pulse width and sends a pulse to control the three H-25’s. Simple and full proof. There is no need to send any power through the tether cable (except the 1 volt P-P from the TV camera). The control console contains On/Off switches for the motors and the lights. With a switch Off the BS2 sees an open and generates a RCTime of 0. In the program, if a 0 RCTime is detected a 750 msec pulse is sent to the H-25, shutting it off. Cool, huh?
Here is the program:
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
' This program controls a submersible ROV using resistance values from a suface console
' and converting the resistance values to a pulsewidth out to H-25's, which then control
' motors and lights.
RCtime1 VAR Word
pw1 VAR Word
RCtime2 VAR Word
pw2 VAR Word
RCtime3 VAR Word
pw3 VAR Word
light PIN 13
motorR PIN 10
motorL PIN 7
'Initialize H-25's (Parallax code)
DO : LOOP UNTIL light = 1 ' Wait For HB-25 Power Up
LOW light ' Make I/O Pin Output/Low
PAUSE 5 ' Wait For HB-25 To Initialize
PULSOUT light, 750
DO : LOOP UNTIL motorL = 1 ' Wait For HB-25 Power Up
LOW motorL ' Make I/O Pin Output/Low
PAUSE 5 ' Wait For HB-25 To Initialize
PULSOUT motorL, 750
DO : LOOP UNTIL motorR = 1 ' Wait For HB-25 Power Up
LOW motorR ' Make I/O Pin Output/Low
PAUSE 5 ' Wait For HB-25 To Initialize
PULSOUT motorR, 750
'Control the ROV
DO
'left motor control
HIGH 8
PAUSE 1
RCTIME 8,1,RCtime1
IF RCtime1 = 0 THEN RCtime1 = 750 ' swith is OFF, shut off motor
PULSOUT 7, RCtime1 ' control H-25
'DEBUG HOME, DEC4 time1, CR
'right motor control
HIGH 11
PAUSE 1
RCTIME 11,1,RCtime2
IF RCtime2 = 0 THEN RCtime2 = 750 'Switch is OFF, shut off motor
PULSOUT 10, RCtime2
'DEBUG DEC4 RCtime2, CR
'lighting control
HIGH 14
PAUSE 1
RCTIME 14,1,RCtime3
IF RCtime3 = 0 THEN RCtime3 = 750 'shut off motor
RCtime3 = RCtime3 MIN 750 MAX 1000 'set rheostat range from off to full on.
PULSOUT 13, RCtime3
'DEBUG DEC4 RCtime3, CR
LOOP
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       |  PatM Registered Member
        Date Joined Jun 2007 Total Posts : 71 | Posted 2/27/2008 4:10 PM (GMT -8) |   | Nope, nope, completely wrong. The BS2 is the wrong processor for this job. Everyone knows boats need Propellers(tm)!
(Sorry, someone had to do it 8) | | Back to Top | | |
   |  Whit Registered Member

       Date Joined Mar 2007 Total Posts : 1247 | Posted 2/29/2008 5:23 AM (GMT -8) |   | | Great project! The design variables are so different from "run around on the ground" robots. Very interesting info about the non-sealed motors working underwater. That really is interesting.
The fish will certainly be surprised! You may even find some sunken treasure. Good luck with the next phase of testing and development. I'll hope for an early thaw.
Larry said...
Check this out readers
http://www.societyofrobots.com/actuators_waterproof_servo.shtml
Great article Larry!
Whit+
"We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
Post Edited (Whit) : 2/29/2008 1:32:16 PM GMT | | Back to Top | | |
       |  RichardF Registered Member
        Date Joined Mar 2007 Total Posts : 154 | Posted 3/10/2008 2:10 AM (GMT -8) |   | Whit, Yes, the compass module is located as far away from electrical wiring and metal as I can get it, in order to minimize affects from magnetic fields induced by electrical current.
Richard | | Back to Top | | |
   |  556RECON Registered Member
        Date Joined Mar 2008 Total Posts : 1 | Posted 4/28/2008 12:43 PM (GMT -8) |   | | Has any one heard about the in water tests??? | | Back to Top | | |
 |  RichardF Registered Member
        Date Joined Mar 2007 Total Posts : 154 | Posted 4/29/2008 7:13 AM (GMT -8) |   | |
Hi all,
Thanks for the interest in my project. I have been doing a lot of work on it over the past month. In-water tests with just the two horizontal drive motors to a depth of 4 feet went just fine. Since I had no depth changing ability other than lowering the tether down from the dock, I tied a buoy to the tether at a preset distance from the ROV and let it go. It worked fine, I could control all horizontal motion out to the 50 foot length of my tether. However, under this situation the camera is useless because I had no way of increasing depth down to the bottom or tilting the nose of the ROV down. Just dangling straight down from the dock the camera/video was okay, but limited to just a few feet. What was nice was the ability to turn the ROV in place and/or back it up.
The control from the surface during these test was a change in resistance in the tether wires (rheostat in the surface control panel) connected to an RCTIME circuit on the Slave board in the ROV. That worked okay, but I had no way of adding vertical thrust motors and getting data back from the ROV to the surface without going to more conductors in the wire.
Sooo. I have made some big changes! I have added two vertical thrust motors (see the attached pictures), and RS422 comms between the ROV and the surface control panel. If you look in the Sandbox Forum you will see my post concerning the succesful RS422 comms. Now I can control all four motors, plus turn the video and lights on and off, plus get all the data I want back from the ROV(depth, trim angle, water temp, battery voltage, etc.) If you look at the attached pictures the control panel has the video monitor sitting on it. Switches and rheostats now control all four motor speeds and directions (my code is attached) in the next post. The ROV "guts" show the BS2 board and the four HB-25 motor controls. The batteries are now underneath the electronic tray, giving me more room.
No friends boats are on my lake yet and I have not purchased a means of recording the video, but that will come soon. Temperatures are cold this week, but next week it warms up and I can test my ROV from the dock. With my new setup I should be able to have the ROV swim out near the surface (buoyance set at neutral) and then I can submerge it to any depth desired using the vertical thrusters. If the ROV is moving ahead and I want to increase depth I will just command the forward vertical thruster to thrust down and increase the down pitch angle. The horizontal thrusters will then push the ROV deeper. You get the picture I am sure. Another nice feature is being able to move the ROV up and down in depth while stationary horizontally. I should really be able to explore underwater objects with good control. A still big problem Is being able to view the video monitor in daylight. I have cardboard hood that I place around it but it isn't very satisfactory. Any suggestions on monitors that work well in the daylight would be appreciated.
This project has been a lot of work but it is certainly rewarding. When I get my tax rebate check I will buy a video recorder and I can then feed you guys some underwater pictures. Thanks for the interest,
Richard
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  |  LilDi Registered Member

       Date Joined Jun 2007 Total Posts : 225 | Posted 4/29/2008 9:06 AM (GMT -8) |   | Very nice project. I want one. Might I suggest before going deep, you pressure test the vehicle, without the electronics inside. Lake Michigan at 300 feet to bottom will be about 150 PSI. Those silicon joints might blow out and flood the vehicle at those depths. You should attach a grabber to the bottom of the vehicle so you can bring up all the bootie. | | Back to Top | | |
 |  RichardF Registered Member
        Date Joined Mar 2007 Total Posts : 154 | Posted 4/29/2008 9:50 AM (GMT -8) |   | LilDi, Good advice. As soon as a boat is available there is a 30 foot hole in our lake I will take it to and drop her down empty of electronics. All joints are flexible epoxy (West G epoxy), not silicon; so they should be okay. The tether is made up of both the electric cable (6 conductor, 28AWG) and a high strength nylon chord which is fastened to the body of the ROV so I can pull it up if it dies or gets stuck. I also am going to, at some point, put a water ballast system on the ROV which automatically blows out the water and the ROV rises to the surface if there is a loss of signal for a certain time between the surface and the ROV. By the way, the ROV weighs about 15 pounds when ballasted for neutral bouyancy. Thanks for the interest, Richard | | Back to Top | | |
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