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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:07 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Project Purpose:
 
To develop an outdoor robot power system which can deliver many more amp-hours of energy than batteries, using a gas engine and a modified automobile alternator. The initial purpose was not to build a robot, but to prototype a Hybrid Power Plant that I could use on an over-the-snow robot. A battery would merely support surges in current demand, like a big capacitor. It wouldn't be there to provide power for anything more than half of a minute. This could lighten my load and extend operating time, particularly for a GPS autonomous robotic project.
 
After building the Hybrid Power Plant and running some tests on it with real loads I decided to put some motors on it and test it out on an R/C robot requiring much more current. This additional step turned out to be a big eye-opener, and gave me another purpose to the project - to test the system on a robot.  
 
Mechanical Design:
 
Coupling an alternator to a small gas engine requires that the shafts be perfectly aligned. Small "spider couplings" provide for up to 1 degree of angular misalignment, and 0.01" of horizontal offset. To align the engine and alternator I decided to make this a machining project (I had tried other ways before, and failed!). Using belts and pulleys would be out of the question due to the introduction of more moving parts, increased system slop and noise, and danger of moving parts.
 
The Hybrid Power Plant would was built by mounting the engine and alternator on their own plates, using a 3/4" aluminum rod as an additional alignment (and to double as handles). Although the alternator had two mounting holes, I opted not to use these since they were offset at different z-axis places. Instead, I machined the front of the alternator flat and drilled/tapped four holes in known locations. These holes allowed me to attach it to its mounting plate and perfectly identify the center shaft. The Honda mini 4-stroke engine (GX35) really needed a clutch - the power curve is way up in the RPMs and it generates little torque until 3,500 RPM. Staton-Inc makes a $60 clutch that has perfect mounting holes, enabling it to be mounted to a plate. I also attached the back and bottom of the engine to four more mounting locations on the base plate. The thought was that by mounting the engine to some sizeable chunks of aluminum I would smooth out vibration by closely coupling it to a mass.
 
The parts are all 3/8" 6061 aluminum, anodized clear. If you want to copy this design, you can download my drawings below (I have provided them in DXF format). You will need to scroll down to find them since I'm only given five (5) attachments per post. 
 
The Hybrid Power Plant now looked like this:
 

 
Electronic Design:
 
Going back to my purpose, the initial idea was that I'd only build and test a portable Hybrid Power Plant - I didn't plan on actually using this sytem on a robot. Therefore, my electronics intiaially consisted of the following:
  • Alternator current/voltage regulation Although I chose a "regulated 1-wire output" alternator from a 1992 Toyota pickup, I determined the regulator caused some problems for this little engine. It was difficult to overcome initial resistance to get the alternator RPMs up 4-6,000 where it produces a lot of power. The alternator was opened up and the voltage regulator was bypassed, bringing the field current outside for my own limiting. This eliminated all resistance and allowed it to turn really freely. The voltage regulator design we came up with allows me to limit field current with external resistors, and charge the battery with a shut-off feature if 14.5V is attained (or other voltages, as set by a potentiometer). This provided a regulated voltage for motors and other loads, a battery charger, and 15-20 amps of current should I need it. A schematic is below:

 

 

  • Throttle control / RPM measurement The amount of current generated relates closely to engine RPM. The higher the engine throttle, the more power! The initial system uses an SX28AC/SS (on an SX28 Proto Board) to count magneto pulses, and a servo to manage the throttle. Having measured current at different RPMs, the goal was to set the engine at known RPMs and known current output. Controlling these variables would ensure that I'm not overcharging the battery (max charge is 5A) and generating more power than I need. Through this process I destroyed many pants and shirts with acid from overcharging batteries. If I was to generate lots of current, I'd have to use what I couldn't put in the battery. With lots of help from a key friend, the following circuit was developed:


The following SX/B code is an open-loop, potentiometer-controlled servo throttle for the above schematic. This example doesn't count magneto pulses at the same time. I've got both pieces of code working independently, but have yet to integrate them using the SX's RTCC/ISR features.

' Potentiometer Throttle Control

DEVICE          SX28, OSCXT2, TURBO, STACKX, OPTIONX
FREQ            4_000_000

' -------------------------------------------------------------------------
' I/O Pins
' -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Servo           PIN RA.1  OUTPUT
RCCircuit       PIN RC.3  INPUT

' -------------------------------------------------------------------------
' Constants
' -------------------------------------------------------------------------

' -------------------------------------------------------------------------
' Variables
' -------------------------------------------------------------------------

ServoVal       VAR        WORD
analog         VAR        WORD

' =========================================================================
  PROGRAM Start
' =========================================================================

Start:
   LOW RC.3
   PAUSE 5
   RCTIME RC.3, 0, analog
   ServoVal = analog/2
   ServoVal = ServoVal+130
   PULSOUT Servo, ServoVal     '   PAUSE 20
   PAUSE 20
   GOTO Start

 

  • Car Headlights / HB-25s and 12V Motors for a Load To test out the system I needed a big load. I used two 50W high-beam headlights, two massive 12V Groschopp Planetary Gear motors, and two HB-25s to control the motors. The HB-25s were connected to the SX28CA/SS Proto Board for control (nothing important here - just a PULSOUT pin, value). I tested the system out with some big loads, and it worked great. It ran for an hour, keeping the battery charged and headlights on high-beam. I quickly learned that an entire power management system would have control over engine RPM and alternator field resistance. I probably wouldn't care much about the battery since it would always be charged. I'd only generate current if I was using the power. I was using about 15-20A at 12V. This is what my load looked like:


The Oversized Boe-Bot
 

I was satisfied that the Hybrid Power Plant would perform really well, and I was ready to shelf it so I could design a robot around the concept. However, the same friend who helped me with the electronics pointed out that I could further prove out the concept if I simply mounted wheels to the Hybrid Power Plant. It made sense considering I hadn't been able to test the motors with a load. Then I wound up with this:
 

 
 
I switched the HB-25s straight over to R/C function and added a transmitter. I set the engine throttle with a potentimeter/servo (SX/B code below) and didn't bother counting magneto pulses. Away we went! Videos are posted in the next message. Under R/C control the whole system works great. I'm certain the Hybrid Power Plant could be used on an outdoor robot. The videos show the first pilot run when I had 16 Ohms of resistance in the alternator field, but now there's only 8 Ohms and it runs much faster. It'll lay down scratch, slide around corners and reverse at full throttle (I completely destroyed an HB-25 doing this, by the way).
 
The oversized Boe-Bot runs better backwards due to weight distribution. Since the Hybrid Power Plant was never supposed to roll, this is something I'll fix on the next project. Moving the battery around lets it run better in the Boe-Bot's "normal" direction with the motors up front. 
 
 
Safety First
 
I nearly had several accidents with this whole project. I think they're worth sharing so we can all keep our hobbies for the rest of our lives. First, I had to develop and prototype the magneto RPM circuit with the engine running on my desk, inside the office. It was necessary to attach an SX-Key, a PC and let the system run to develop the code and to tweak the signal conditioning circuit from the magneto. This really shouldn't have been done indoors due to CO poisoning (and noise). I kept doors and windows open, but it was a bad idea and I knew it at the time. Nothing bad happened to me, but I wouldn't do it that way again. Other bad things happen from running an engine on my desk. Once my laptop mysteriously shut down due to vibration. Next time I'll run the engine outside and use several serial cables (this is the same way we used to test BASIC Stamp projects on R/C airplanes, such as the dual-engine synchronizers).  
 
Another time I was a bit unaware of the power I was generating. I had connected the battery to the alternator and increased the throttle to a high RPM. I then disconnected the battery and easily dumped 100A into the voltage/current regulator circuit. The electronics truly exploded and caught fire - I didn't know if I should have reached for the fire extinguisher or tried to cut the engine first. I decided to cut the engine first. Meanwhile I exploded capacitors, LEDs and a 25 Ohm/1 W aluminum housing resistor. The trajectory of all components was away from me. Could have been avoided by keeping the battery connected.
 
I also experimented with some smaller spider couplings to connect the alternator to the engine. Though they were rated for much higher RPMs than I was using, a small misalignment sent some parts into the air. I wasn't standing along the axial line of rotation, so I didn't get hit. Before any schoolchildren get to see this I'll need to build a shield around the coupling.
 
I was prepared for most of the accidents, but didn't quite anticipate the fire on my desk.  
 
Credits
 
My friend John from Tigerbotics provided tons of help on the whole project, especially the electronics. Without his assistance I'd still be using a hacksaw to cut aluminum, trying to understand the "how" instead of "why" and be somewhat frustrated. Since I can't help him with his projects the same way, my intent with posting the whole project is that others could benefit the same way.   

Post Edited (Ken Gracey (Parallax)) : 10/26/2006 9:48:51 PM GMT


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Steve Joblin
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:25 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Awsome!!! One thing missing... video!  have any movies of this in action?
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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:27 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Hang on - there's more. I'm running into some trouble uploading videos and design files. It's going to take me an hour to be done.

Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.
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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:31 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Video #1 is attached.

Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.



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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:34 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

Video #2 is attached.

Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.



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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 1:49 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

DXF drawings are attached. Use them as you see appropriate.

Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.



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Bean (Hitt Consulting)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 2:48 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken,
You were quite brave (or something else) to run that in the garage with the car in there too!!!

Bean.


Cheap used 4-digit LED display with driver IC www.hc4led.com
Low power SD Data Logger www.sddatalogger.com
SX-Video Display Modules www.sxvm.com
 
"People who are willing to trade their freedom for security deserve neither and will lose both." Benjamin Franklin
 

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stamptrol
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   Posted 10/26/2006 2:59 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken,

Very nice !!! Always great to see someone push the envelop a bit.

Regarding the spider-type coupling, most small gen-sets (up to maybe 10KW) mount the alternator rotor right on the engine shaft (with either a female Morse taper or a rigid solid coupling) without a front bearing in the alternator. The frame of the alternator then is only holding the stator windings and maybe a small steady bearing on the outboard end of the alternator. Reduces the pain of getting things lined up and vibration free.

Really fine work all around!

Tom


Tom Sisk
 

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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 10/26/2006 3:05 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Tom,

I'm not sure I understand the mounting connections you're describing. Could I trouble you to draw me a little picture?
Thanks,

Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.
 
Update: I understand now. The shafts provide alignment on a single bearing system. I've seen the couplings from Northern Supply designed to connect pumps to engines - they're a single piece. I got it now.

Post Edited (Ken Gracey (Parallax)) : 10/26/2006 11:28:43 PM GMT

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stamptrol
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   Posted 10/27/2006 4:44 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken,

No problem; BTW, not meant as criticism of the design!

I used the same set up back about 1980 to build an eddy-current coupling to drive the main hoist drum on a crane. Just used the rotor out of an alternator mounted to the shaft of a motor that ran at constant speed.

After several less than wonderful attempts at alignment, a machinist at the university's shops put me onto the idea of the rotor being mounted only to the motor shaft. He just used a piece of 3" shafting, about 6" long, bored out to the motor shaft size on one end and the rotor shaft size on the other.

I'm also going to find a picture of a LeTourneau tree-crusher I used to maintain. Your machine's layout looks remarkably like the crusher....except it had an 8-cylinder diesel driving about a 300 KW generator, 125 HP DC traction motors on each of the 3 wheels ......and weighed in at 35 Tons, and stood 15 feet high. The company also had a bigger one at 75 Tons but I didn't have to work on that one.

Cheers


Tom Sisk
 

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stamptrol
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   Posted 10/27/2006 5:07 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.

 

  Ken,

   Attached are three shots of the LeTourneau tree crusher. Photos are by David M. Moehing, Mississippi U, www-forestryimages.org.Used with permission.

  This what your Boe-bot can grow into!

Cheers,

Tom Sisk

  


Tom Sisk
 


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John R.
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   Posted 10/27/2006 5:27 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Personally, I would have liked to see the hydraulic version you initially planned on :-)

Good work, it looks like you have a strong base to build on.


John R.
8 + 8 = 10

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Tronic (Greece)
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   Posted 10/27/2006 7:26 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Awesome! jumpin
 
I wonder if its legal (and safe) to leash it on the streets fully automomous, with sensors, cameras, GPS etc... Like a really big boe-bot!  Do you think it will need licence plates? tongue
 
 
Regards Thanos
 
 


 
 
(Translate it using Babelfish)
 

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parsko
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   Posted 10/31/2006 4:31 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken,

You could use two universal joints to couple the altercator and engine, also... Check McMaster-Carr or MSC. But, it is certainly a percent or two more efficient using Stamptrol's idea of mounting direct.

-Parsko
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SSteve
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   Posted 10/31/2006 6:20 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken Gracey (Parallax) said...
Video #1 is attached.


That puppy is loud! I hope you're wearing hearing protection when you're using it indoors. Otherwise you won't have much to protect in a little while.


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Justin Sane
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   Posted 11/7/2006 10:21 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
I wonder what's the max of weight load it can pull?


 "Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality."
-Jules de Gaultier

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Beau Schwabe (Parallax)
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   Posted 11/7/2006 10:40 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Justin,

That would also be a function of speed... You could gear ratio something down to pull a building if you wanted to, but at the sacrifice of speed.

The real measure would be how much horse power the hybrid unit could deliver after converting from gas to electric. How energy efficient
is the conversion? ...and then again, to answer your question, how energy efficient are the drive motors used in combination with the electronics?


Beau Schwabe

IC Layout Engineer
Parallax, Inc.

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Justin Sane
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   Posted 11/8/2006 7:57 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Yeah, I checked out the video, looks like it got the speed.


This is one cool concept, since it is gas powered robot that can be controlled without any kind of hard mechanism.

I cant wait to see the real application of this. smilewinkgrin


 "Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality."
-Jules de Gaultier

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Brian_B
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   Posted 1/27/2007 2:28 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ken,
Just seen this , Where did you get the motors

Brian
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Ken Gracey (Parallax)
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   Posted 1/27/2007 5:38 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Hi Brian,

From eBay, surplus. They were really low-cost ($30 each) and the guy had 14 of them!

I'm about ready to unleash version 2 of this robot. I've really tidied up the whole system with a mini alternator, no clutch, and less parts everywhere.

Ken Gracey
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Brian_B
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   Posted 1/27/2007 5:46 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Cool ,can't wait to new version

Brian

Post Edited (Brian Beckius) : 1/28/2007 1:57:09 AM GMT

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Henrymou
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   Posted 1/29/2007 6:15 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
COOL! I think that your project is neat-O! Your video is awesome, my parents are impressed with your sleek design. My dad is impressed with your documentation. This is an interesting example of an engineering science fair project, like the one I hope to do for the Synopsis Science Fair! Check out my recently built Seven Segment Decoder-Driver! Good Luck!
-Henryforums.parallax.com/forums/default.aspx?f=21&m=168438 yeah
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Paul Baker
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   Posted 1/30/2007 2:15 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
Ah so you did go with the Mini-Cooper alternator. My car still starts, so you didn't salvage it from me. :)


Paul Baker

Propeller Applications Engineer

Parallax, Inc.

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Loopy Byteloose
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   Posted 2/5/2007 9:23 AM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
This looks like a great 'mule' for around the home totes. Just provide it with R/C remote and it can pull your lawn mower or a cart full of odds and ends.

I just wish I had the machine shop resources to enlarge my projects. It is amazing how much hardware a microcontroller can actually manage.


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                     Tropical regards,      G. Herzog [ 黃鶴 ] in Taiwan

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bassmaster
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   Posted 2/5/2007 1:37 PM (GMT -8)    Quote This PostAlert An Admin About This Post.
I love it, it can double as a generator when the power is out, here in TX I have $400 - $500 electric bills, and have been thinking seriously about soundproofing an area in the garage with a gasoline generator and powering the electric dryer etc with it. I did the math and it will save me 1/2 the cost a month of just the dryer usage. ( we have a family of 5). We are in a Coopt and used only 2500kw last month with the heater at 60 at night and 70 in the day still cost us $300 bucks. Texas electric bills bite! we are the highest cost in the nation.

Another project I am playing with is a simple $5.00 car 110v AC/DC inverter 75W I got from Ebay and an older trolling motor battery from my bass boat that is just a little weak for tournament fishing. Hooked (no pun) it up to a 12v solar panel, and its been lighting my garage for 2 1/2 months so far.

Been thinking of daisy chaining the other 4 batterys I have together and getting some more juice, but those big solar panels are expensive.
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