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Hacking a Carbon Monoxide unit — Parallax Forums

Hacking a Carbon Monoxide unit

Hello All,
I have the Parallax 27983 board and CO2 gas sensor working with my own PCB (#PBASIC48W_P40). Draws a lot of Current when all is hooked up (did a work around though).
Anyway!!!
After researching and reading the evolution of the "Standards" set for the common "Home" CO2 sensor (NOT Commercial), I figured it would be simpler in the long run to Hack a $25.00 unit that I bought.

*Has anyone ever Hacked a CO2 unit?
*Hoping to go thru (220 & 10k ohms) pull up resistors as my I/O detector
*Bought a 9volt battery operated unit that should make it (less dangerous) to Hack.
*Just general information with Google search.

Thanks for any input.

Comments

  • Hello All,

    Update...
    Found some videos on "YouTube"

    Any input is still welcome.

    Thanks again.
  • I believe you mean CO which is carbon monoxide, not CO2 which is carbon dioxide.

    Home CO sensors are based on electrolytic (=electrochemical) cells, very low current consumption, whereas the Parallax 605-00007) is based on a catalytic reaction that needs high temperature to proceed, therefore higher operating current.

    Home CO sensors need to amplify a tiny current and it is likely that the analog processing is buried within the chip, and only the alarm is output. If the alarm output will do what you want, it should be possible to tap into it. Getting out the quantitative levels may be more challenging.

    Another option for low-current monitoring is the SpecSense product, ultra-low-power-analog-sensor-module-carbon-monoxide , from specsense (also Digikey). A spinoff of that company is running an Indiegogo campaign for a wearable monitor called the Sparrow, with interesting integration with an Otterbox iPhone case.
  • Hello Tracy,
    Thanks for the feedback, clarification and the reason for the higher current draw. Did check out both of the links, thanks. The SMD LED is right in the middle of the PCB, but the piezo seems to be connect (electrical) under the raised component on the top (hard to get to). The LED may be the best approach.

    Thanks for the insight and education

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