Best glue for steel shaft and steel wheel?
T Chap
Posts: 4,198
I want to attach some steel roller wheels to a shaft and hope to do it without using a shaft collar to hold the wheels on. I have used JB Weld before in some cases and find it to be very robust. Online some recommend a loctite retaining compound part number 638 "A maximum strength retaining compound for use where high dynamic force or cyclic loading is expected. Locks cylindrical assemblies up to .010" diameter clearance. Fixtures in 5 minutes. The shear strength steel/steel is 4500 lbs".
Anybody got experience with this? The shaft is precision 3/8" black oxide carbon steel and wheel is
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3689k15/=164ghct
Anybody got experience with this? The shaft is precision 3/8" black oxide carbon steel and wheel is
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3689k15/=164ghct
Comments
-Mike R...
I am just curious... Just exactly what are you trying to achieve and what is the application? Your description uses the word "wheels". Those are some mighty expensive "wheels". If they are not going to be used in a track, then there are much cheaper alternatives.
At first glance and read, it appears that you might not have entirely thought this through. Rotating assemblies are basically based upon load, RPM, tolerances, and perhaps the amount of force required to move the assembly.
If you truly need a "track roller", then perhaps a bolt on model would be the best alternative, however, not all assemblies permit easy bolting.
If the load is light and the assembly will be run at low RPMs, then perhaps some wheels with sleeve bearings (Oilite for oilless and bronze for oiling) held by snap rings would be a good alternative. On the other hand, wheels with radial bearings, will permit a higher load and RPM.
In any case, there is a shaft / bearing mismatch, and unless you absolutely need "track rollers", I would consider returning them for a cheaper and better solution.
Tell us more about your application and various parameters for better advice.
Totally forgot about loctite.
Anyone know where to get wheels/pulleys/gears with 3mm holes?
misumi would offer precision spacer to mount on the shaft and allow a large ID wheel or gear.
http://www.robotdigg.com/
for budget, commodity items
Turns out what I need is right on my doorstep. Well down the road in Germany anyway: https://www.pololu.com/product/1078 Nice Aluminium hubs with 3mm holes and set screws. Or these smaller. cheaper 3mm shaft to 12mm hex adapters https://www.pololu.com/product/2682
Sounds like I have another project coming....
Perhaps not a good idea without a gear box though.
Aside: They have some great omni-wheels as well: http://gtfrobots.com/product-category/omni-directional-wheel/
Are we witnessing history being made here?
These look like they could motivate a good size bot around, with all the bells and whistles you can cram into it. Wish you good luck on finding just the right part's for your robot named: ________________.
What are you going to use for gear reduction?
Do you have a chassis design in mind?
No need to answer, as I don't want to side track you.
Robot name: I have no idea. "botybot"
Gear reduction: No idea. Bits of string ?
Chassis: No idea. I'd love to use good old fashioned Mecanno. Perhaps something hacked out of plywood.
However history was just made here. Heater completed his first bot. A year of so ago I bought, on a whim, a cheap obstacle avoiding robot kit. Only an hour or so ago it was finished and working. An astounding rate of progress!
Of course it's going to need a brain transplant. That little PIC in there is a bit dumb.
Amazingly this thing is made in Thailand.
It would be how you set up the track, that's if you want to throw your hat into F8C.
I would think it will be easier to do a brain transplant.
Do we get a video of what your bot does best at the moment?
If not a bot, what?
Anyway, no. This thing just trundles around steering away from obstacles before it hits them, thanks to it's IR sensors. Pretty standard stuff.
It does get stuck in corners occasionally but I suspect that can be fixed by tweaking the sensor sensitivity pots.
It's nice that Future Kit included a programming header on the board. They don't say anything about it in the instructions. It could easily be reprogrammed, perhaps with a new PIC if they have blown the protection fuses. But hey, I don't want to get into that old PIC stuff.
Perhaps the brain transplant is out as well. It's done. It is what it is. It's cute and a fine example of Thailand technology. Might be time to move on to the next thing.... No idea. I just love to have them on my desk and give them a turn every now and then. They look and feel so good!