The "Artist" robot

NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
edited June 2015 in Robotics Vote Up0Vote Down
Hello everybody,

This is my attempt to make a ground painter robot in order to scribble on large areas like street, yards or sidewalks.

The project has 3 parts:

Part 1: The main body of the robot (Chassis, electronics, Power etc.)
Part2: The painting mechanism of the robot (I have designed 3 different ways of writing. The problem is still open)
Part3: The programming procedure that makes the several drawings (letters, geometric drawings, images) into command code for the robot

I hope that you’ll enjoy my “journey” for this goal and you will find useful information as well as I’m waiting for your proposals and your feedback


Part1: The main body of a robot

For this purpose we need a robot with big and strong wheels able to move comfortably.
Arlo and Eddie robots are very suitable for this purpose. Its big and strong wheels are ideal for movements on streets and sidewalks. Both robots have also a lot of space for additional development and mechanisms essentials for the painting
However on my design, I decided to keep only the 2 main wheels (Left and Right) and choose a different chassis design that is close to the Stingray robot
Except of the main wheels, the robot chassis has also 8 aluminum parts, 4 plastic parts from a 3d printer and an aluminum omni wheel .


attachment.php?attachmentid=107213&d=1393441695


The owners of a 3d printer know well, that the best way to test a 3d designed accessory is to print it and try its functionality in the real world.
Technical difficulties prevent me to do this so the only I have made till now is to gather the 8 aluminum parts of the chassis and put them together with the Motor Mount and Wheel Kit (#27971) (the wheel kit from Eddie robot).
For those who want to follow this project I strongly recommend the use the Motor Mount & Wheel Kit - Molded Plastic for many reasons (I ‘ll explain details on my next posts.)
The entire “philosophy” of the robot follows the logic of the Arlo Robotic Platform System
and will be able to program it using the spin language or the Propeller C using the SimpleID tool obtaining all the advantages from the ActivityBot programming.
At the moment here are some photos from chassis parts and from a rough assembly
The 8 aluminum parts of the chassis

attachment.php?attachmentid=107214&d=1393441721

Put them together without screws ...

attachment.php?attachmentid=107215&d=1393441724


A first rough assembly in order to compare the size with the Stingray and The ActivityBot

attachment.php?attachmentid=107216&d=1393441726

Nikos Giannakopoulos
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Comments

  • 167 Comments sorted by Date Added Votes
  • ercoerco Posts: 17,956
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Beautiful fabrication job, Nikos! So few people are doing that. IMO hand fabbing is a skill that will never be replaced, and it can also help you visualize designs better, which in turn can improve your 3-D design skills.

    After the Atomic Flame Deluge comes and all computers and 3D printers are dead, Nikos will reign supreme!

    edit: remember Hektor, the painting robot? Still fun to watch some 9 years later. Very fluid (?) motion.
    "When you make a thing, a thing that is new, it is so complicated making it that it is bound to be ugly. But those that make it after you, they don’t have to worry about making it. And they can make it pretty, and so everybody can like it when others make it after you."

    - Pablo Picasso
  • ercoerco Posts: 17,956
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    And here is the world's most dangerous "printing robot", which fires paintballs at a wall to make dot-matrix letters. Pretty cool, even if the resolution is poor. Jump to ~4:12 where it does a passable job of writing "DEPONK" (?) on the wall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3FVXIoVPko

    Edit: better results at the 2-minute mark at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xv3lLTWNRA "Hello World"
    "When you make a thing, a thing that is new, it is so complicated making it that it is bound to be ugly. But those that make it after you, they don’t have to worry about making it. And they can make it pretty, and so everybody can like it when others make it after you."

    - Pablo Picasso
  • Ron CzapalaRon Czapala Posts: 2,364
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Nice!!
    Looks kinda like my homemade StingRay - on steroids :smile:


    attachment.php?attachmentid=81463
  • ercoerco Posts: 17,956
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Another fine example of craftsmanship, Ron. Great bot, but your breadboard looks a little empty... :)
    "When you make a thing, a thing that is new, it is so complicated making it that it is bound to be ugly. But those that make it after you, they don’t have to worry about making it. And they can make it pretty, and so everybody can like it when others make it after you."

    - Pablo Picasso
  • Ron CzapalaRon Czapala Posts: 2,364
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    erco wrote: »
    Another fine example of craftsmanship, Ron. Great bot, but your breadboard looks a little empty... :)

    Yeah! That was an earlier pic before I added Ping and two Sharp IR detectors and a MCP3202 ADC chip...

    The motor controller and encoder stuff is "under the hood"

    It's just collecting dust in the basement now...
  • ercoerco Posts: 17,956
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    It's just collecting dust in the basement now...

    No sir, it's waiting for Judgement Day to become self-aware. :)
    "When you make a thing, a thing that is new, it is so complicated making it that it is bound to be ugly. But those that make it after you, they don’t have to worry about making it. And they can make it pretty, and so everybody can like it when others make it after you."

    - Pablo Picasso
  • FranklinFranklin Posts: 4,747
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    erco, in response to your video....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKK933KK6Gg
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Ron,

    Actually your design was one of the sources of my inspiration.
    The Chassis construction was easy and not too expensive for me. I gave the patterns from paper in a local whitesmith and I have them for 20 euros.
    However the Artist is much bigger than a Stingray robot.
    The Motor Mount and Wheel Kit makes this difference. As you can see from the next image there is a significance difference on the size of these two robots.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107235&d=1393528430

    In the next posts you'll see that the Artist can carry internal even a battery same as the Arlo Robot!

    erco,

    No ..... this painting method is very extreme!!!!!
    I would prefer something more Artistic Spray...... Chalk ...... or Sand... (remember Skryf from one of your posts?)
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  • Ron CzapalaRon Czapala Posts: 2,364
    edited February 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    NikosG wrote: »
    Ron,
    Actually your design was one of the sources of my inspiration.
    The Chassis construction was easy and not too expensive for me.

    Nikos,
    Your motors and wheels are much beefier than what I used. What size battery are you planning on using? I used a 5Ah 12V gell cell.

    It will be interesting to see what it weighs when you get a finished product.

    Good Luck!
    - Ron
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    What size battery are you planning on using?


    Although I have enough space for two choices

    Choice A: 12V 5.4AH dimensions 90mm X100mmX 70mm
    Choice B: 12V 7.2AH dimensions 150mm X95mm X65mm

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107305&d=1393792169

    I'll use the choice A because this battery is much more lighter from the second and because I don't need the use of robot for to many hours
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  • GarethGareth Posts: 278
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Nice one NikosG...
    This is one very neat robust base, ideal for taking on more serious works of art....
    I think I saw somewhere (i am sure it was posted in the forum) a robot that was dropping either flour or sand along a street (ie dotmatrix style ) ... ;-)
    The handles are perfect, its so difficult to tame these metal beasts....

    I am also glad to see the heavy batteries are forward of the centre-line ... my S2 tends to lift its single boggy wheel on fast changes of direction.
    Looking forward to seeing what you will be attaching/pouring through the "Art Port"
    regards G
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Finally after a lot of expectance I can do 3D printing again!!!

    Yesterday was a day full of tests and printing of the Artist’s plastic parts.
    A double HB-25 holder was the first part I made. This part designed in order to hold the two HB-25 of the robot. This part will be in the center inside the robot where my access will be limited. In order to can screw it tight on the chassis base, I put 3 secure nuts inside the plastic holder . Now I can screw this accessory on the chassis internal without hold the nut with any tool from the inside….

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107747&d=1395668288

    Another basic part of the robot is the bearing block extensions.
    These two extensions must be strong in order to hold the motor mount and wheel kits from the top of the chassis.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107748&d=1395668324

    They have a lot of plastic and best quality printing that took me 2 hours for every one......
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Gareth wrote: »
    I think I saw somewhere (i am sure it was posted in the forum) a robot that was dropping either flour or sand along a street (ie dotmatrix style ) ... ;-)

    Gareth, you talk for the ,Skryf......

    Yes this robot is great inspiration .....!!!!!!!.
    Is one of the three ways I have in mind in order to achieve my goal....
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    To make clear the use of the bearing block extensions you can see the next image:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107813&d=1395965471

    The extension is placed on top of the bearing Block. The motor kit I use is the discontinued Mount and Wheel Kit (#27971) (the wheel kit from Eddie robot).
    I think that the ideal for this robot is the Motor Mount & Wheel Kit - Molded Plastic for 3 reasons:

    1) Less weight (the most important)
    2) The black plastic bearing block of the Motor Mount & Wheel Kit - Molded Plastic , would suits perfect with the black 3d printed extension (as a material and as a color) and it would give the “sense” of a compact part (and not of an extension)
    3) Ken has already analyzed the technical advantages of this new mot kit (more accurate and precise movements, cost, and much more….)

    Some other essential parts of the Artist you can see in the next image:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107814&d=1395965507

    1) The battery Holder, that keeps the battery stable in the robot’s base. This base follows also the idea of the double HB-holder with embedded nuts for easier assembly
    2) Two smaller holders for small electronic parts like the voltage regulator.
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited March 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Another essential part of the robot is a Power distribution system in order to share the battery’s power to the robots devices like the board, the HB25, and the painting mechanism.

    This system consisted of a switch panel with 3 power switches, (one main for the entire robot, one for the HB-25s and one for the board).

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107846&d=1396126603

    This panel has also 6 pairs of cables.
    One pair comes from the battery, 2 pairs go to the HB-25s, one pair goes to the voltage regulator and Propeller board, one to the Charging socket and the last to one additional power connection for extra devices.

    This system of cables is a little bit messy....The god news is that you can avoid all this stuff with the new Arlo Power Distribution Board for the Arlo Robotic Platform that announced yesterday by Ken
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    All the necessary parts for the Artist robot are here!

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107904&d=1396387480

    I made some essential holes on the chassis parts and I think that I’m ready for the assembly….

    I hope that the final synthesis will meet my expectations....
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  • ercoerco Posts: 17,956
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    A thing of beauty, Nikos. Είναι όμορφη!

    I hope it functions exactly as you intend.

    (Just in case, however it works, be sure to say "that's what I meant for it to do". Works for me! :))
    "When you make a thing, a thing that is new, it is so complicated making it that it is bound to be ugly. But those that make it after you, they don’t have to worry about making it. And they can make it pretty, and so everybody can like it when others make it after you."

    - Pablo Picasso
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    erco wrote: »
    I hope it functions exactly as you intend.

    Thank you Erco!

    I'll learn it very soon.... :) !
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Assembling the Artist robot.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107934&d=1396485811

    The assembly of the Artist robot had 12 steps, and took me about 75 min.
    Step 1: Upgrade the old motor mount and wheel kit with the 36 position encoders. (You can avoid this step using the NEW Arlo Motor Mount & Wheel Kit Aluminum or Plastic)
    Step 2: / Prepare the top part of the chassis. Mount the 2 aluminum handles and the 4 aluminum standoffs.
    Step3: Prepare the bottom and side part of the chassis. Mount the 3 side mount plates and the tail wheel mount plate
    Step4: Put together the top and bottom part of the chassis. Mount the two parts of the chassis from step 2 and step 3.
    Step 5: Mount the “switch panel” with the power distribution system.(You can use the NEW Arlo Power Distribution Board for the Arlo Robotic Platform )
    Step 6: Mount the right motor and wheel kit. In this step we use the 3D-printed baring block extension.
    Step 7: Mount the HB-25s. In this step we use the 3D-printed double base for the HB-25s. First we mount the Hb-25s on the base. Then we connect the cables from the encoders, the motors and power distribution system. Then we put the entire module inside the robot.
    Step 8: Mount the battery. We connect the battery with the power distribution system and we use the 3D-printed battery holder in order to screw the battery inside the robot.
    Step 9: Mount the left motor and wheel kit and the rest 2 slim sides mount plates. In this step we use the 2nd 3D-printed baring block extension.
    Step 10: Mount the “Tail wheel”
    Step 11: Mount the left and right wheels.
    Step 12: Mount the Propeller Activity Board & sensors. In this step we mount the Board the necessary sensors and we connect all the cables.

    The robot is almost ready. The time to try Andy’s Arlodrive code is coming……


    Nikos Giannakopoulos.
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    The Main Body Of the Artist robot is ready.
    I added only a holder for the Vecho 360 speaker in order to run the Alro code with WAV.
    Here is the final result:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=107953&d=1396618605

    The Artist features:

    Brain: Parallax Propeller
    Programming Language: Propeller C
    Weight: 6.4 Kgr
    Dimensions (LxWxH):37cmX32cmX23cm
    Wheel Diameter: 15,5cm
    Distance Between Wheels: 28,5 cm
    Motors RPM: 150
    Max Velocity (Theoretically) : 1,21 m/sec
    Time for 1 full rotation (with Max speed): 0,73 sec

    I haven't finished all the tests with the robot, but I can say that the result was beyond my expectations!

    Andy's Arlo Drive code is a miracle!!!
    His code is a truly treasure !!! It makes things very simple and very powerful!!!

    Nikos Giannakopoulos
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    In the next posts I'll try to present the analysis of the technical features of the robot:


    Max velocity

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108000&d=1396780807

    This velocity is theoretically right because we not take into account parameters like friction weight etc.
    If we want to have an accurate number of the max velocity the best way is to measure the time than needs the robot in order to travel in a certain distance...


    Nikos Giannakopoulos
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  • WhitWhit Posts: 3,659
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    This is a very interesting project Nikos! Love all your documentation.
    Whit+

    "We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Whit wrote: »
    This is a very interesting project Nikos! Love all your documentation.

    Thank you Whit! . I hope you'll find interesting and the next posts!

    The sure is that you can apply theese calculation on every differential robot with different dimensions.....
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Calculate the time that needs the Artist for 1 full rotation

    If The Artist makes 1 full rotation each wheel will travel the perimeter C of the red circle.
    C=π*diameter

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108019&d=1396900796

    The diameter AB of this circle is the distance AB between two wheels. From post #21 you can see that AB = 28,5cm. So C=3,14*28,5cm= 89,49cm. From the same post you can also see that he max velocity of each wheel is V=1,21m/sec=121,675cm/sec . So the time that needs robot to make a full rotation is time = C/V=0,735sec

    Nikos Giannakopoulos
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Gravity center, rotation center & rotation area of the Artist.

    Gravity center is the center of the mass of the robot and is a point that the robot balances as you hold it from this point.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108070&d=1397066706

    Practically I found the Axis of balance of the robot (Blue axes) holding the robot from different points and trying to found the point that the robot balanced.
    The gravity center of a robot is very important and specifies the entire behavior of the robot.
    According David Anderson of the Dallas Personal Robotics Group, the gravity center is ideal to be behind the axle that connects 2 wheels and close to this axle.
    The distance of the Artist’s gravity center from the axle according my measurements is 4,5cm.
    The rotation center is also very important, because this point is the best for the painting mechanism.
    Of course we can put the painting mechanism in other different points of the robot, but this will make our programming code and calculations much more difficult.
    The Artist center of rotation is the middle of the axle that connects 2 wheels (red axis).
    It is also useful to know the rotation area of the robot.
    When the robot makes various maneuvers we must know the rotation area in order to program the robot to avoid the obstacles.
    The rotation area of the Artist is a circle with radius 24,5cm (green circle).
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Change the main Board of the robot from Propeller Activity Board to Propeller Board of Education

    After a lot of tests and Andy’s help, I made an important upgrade to Artist’s main board.
    I replaced the Propeller Activity Board with the Propeller Board of Education.
    I put back the Propeller Activity Board in my ActivityBot robot kit.
    So I can test again all the offering code from Parallax tutorials!.

    Except from the obvious benefit (I have again active my precious ActivityBot), the new board offers to the “Artist” some significance characteristics:
    1) The microphone. (It gives me the ability for advanced applications with speak recognition)
    2) The VGA video output port. (It gives me the ability to add a small VGA display in the robot )
    3) The 4-16 VDC power input could give me the ability to power the board directly from the 12V battery without the use of a Voltage Converter Regulator.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108273&d=1398206752

    All the rest characteristics of the two bards are very similar. They use the same I/O pins for Xbee and SD card. The only change you must do is to connect the motors on different pins from P12 & P13 (I choose P18 &P19).
    Following Andy's advice, I used the servo_pins(18,19) and drive_servoPins(18,19) commands in order to change the Pins for the motors.
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  • idbruceidbruce Posts: 5,486
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Very cool and nice job


    Novel Solutions - http://www.novelsolutionsonline.com/ - Machinery Design • - • Product Development
    "Necessity is the mother of invention." - Author unknown.

  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    idbruce wrote: »
    Very cool and nice job
    Thank you ibruce!

    I think that the "Stingray" design is a good choice for a robot!
    In the next post I'll post some Videos...

    Nikos
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited April 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Calibration and spin test

    Calibration is a very important procedure for a robot.
    The Arlo drive that uses the “Artist” robot, has a calibration procedure as the calibration method of the ActivityBot.
    In the next video you can see the calibration of the robot.

    [video=youtube_share;ZnDjxrPliIY]

    I also made some tests for the rotation accuracy. I used the drive_goto(steps,-steps) command to spin the robot with full speed. From my first rough measurments, I saw that 33 steps gives a rotation almost 90 degrees, 67 steps gives a rotation almost 180 degrees, 100 steps gives a rotation almost 270 degrees and 134 steps gives a rotation almost 360 degrees.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108306&d=1398329930


    I’II come back in this issue and I’ll explain further the topic using math.

    Nikos Giannakopoulos
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 604
    edited May 2014 Vote Up0Vote Down
    Encoders-spokes-ticks & distances

    In this post I’ll try to explain in details the Artist movements and gives some general formulas that we can use in every robot based on some crucial characteristics of the robot.

    The 36 position encoders,that uses Artist (the same as the Arlo Robot) have 36 spokes, separated by 36 spaces, for a total of 72 ticks. If the wheel turns 1/72th of a turn, (that’s a tick’s worth), it will travel 48,67cm /72=0,676 cm (on post #22 you can see that the perimeter of the wheel is 48,67 cm)

    So if we want to give a formula for the distance that a robot travels executing the command Drive-goto (1,1) distance for 1 Tick=(pi*wheel_diameter)/2*Encoder-Spokes)=3.14*15.5cm/2*36=48.67cm/72=0,676cm

    attachment.php?attachmentid=108926&d=1401564067

    So if you have a robot that uses the Drive_Goto command and has encoders, you can put the encoders’ spokes and the wheel diameter on the above formula, and you will find the distance for 1 tick. If you want to find out how many ticks your program needs to tell to your robot to travel for a certain distance you must devide distance by distance_for_1_tick
    ticks= distance/distance_for_1_tick

    For the Artist robot the number of ticks that we need for a certain distance is: ticks = distance cm
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