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willthiswork89
08-24-2006, 03:47 AM
Hey guys quick question... imthinking about getting one of these but from the look of it you have to solder everything your self... its cheap sao i might try it but if i could be positive ide rather find a preassembled thing.... so any knowledge on the product would be great thanks!

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Bruce Bates
08-24-2006, 09:43 AM
Kevin -

Here is a kit, but it will still require soldering:
http://www.hvwtech.com/products_list.asp?CatID=113&SubCatID=146&SubSubCatID=0

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bulkhead
08-25-2006, 01:12 PM
I haven't used that one, but I have used the SN754410NE which is exactly the same as the L293D except with a higher current rating (almost up to L298?). I got mine from www.hobbyengineering.com/H1048.html (http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1048.html), you can find some nice info about the L293D at www.solarbotics.com (http://www.solarbotics.com).

I just plugged it into a breadboard and did all of the wiring there, however you should really solder it onto a PCB so the center legs can dissipate heat.

Loopy Byteloose
08-27-2006, 12:25 AM
I have one and up to a point they are okay. I do prefer the L298 over the L293D.
It dumps more heat and handles a wider range.

There will come the day when you want real power [like 1/2 horsepower] and then the HB-25 is a must.
Within similar sized devices, it is a bargain.

You can either buy your way up, or just use the HB-25 from the start.

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"If you want more fiber, eat the package.· Not enough?· Eat the manual."········


···················· Tropical regards,····· G. Herzog [·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan

willthiswork89
08-27-2006, 03:14 AM
Hey Guys, Ive never really soldered anything toa PCB board before so im a little nervous about it, should i just get one from like radio shack?if i do how do i get the connectors connected there are like tons of holes on it from and back? anybody have a tutorial for using them from radioshack?

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Unsoundcode
08-27-2006, 08:58 AM
Here is another link to a kit that provides detailed assembly and implementation instructions which I think would be a lot easier than going to Radio Shack and trying to design and build one yourself. Whichever route you take good luck.

http://www.robotobjects.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=67


Jeff T.

PJ Allen
08-27-2006, 09:07 AM
Hey, nice kit.

Needs a good heat-sink though (a notable·absence.)

willthiswork89
08-27-2006, 09:41 AM
PJ Allen do you think a heat sink is necessary to run a 3A Motor and a smaller one like <1A?

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PJ Allen
08-27-2006, 10:09 AM
· Is a·heat-sink necessary?

· I truly figure so -- but you might find out differently with the "finger test" (if you can't keep your finger on it when it's running then it needs a heat-sink.)· If whatever only runs briefly, then maybe/maybe not.· If it's running practically continuously (extended periods), then it's more likely.

· Typically, tabs alone don't make it for you; they're not supposed to -- that's why they put the hole in the tab, afterall, to secure the device to the heat-sink.

· A nice touch is that the L298's tab is = to GND (so if your metal case is DC GND, then the device doesn't have to be isolated from it.)

Post Edit --

It's not just the current, it's the voltage, too; it's all about Power, watts: Volts X Amps = Watts

(P = E * I, E = P / I, I =·P / E)

Here's some more from the Flying-by-the-Seat-of-Your-Pants Dept.:

It's a "25W" device and you want/expect 3A, then at the outside the motor has to get by with an·8V supply (25W / 3A = 8V).· A 12V motor running 3A is consuming... 36W.

The datasheet shows, however scantily,·how to parallel the outputs for greater currents, but that's not a panacaea.

Post Edited (PJ Allen) : 8/27/2006 3:24:11 AM GMT

willthiswork89
08-27-2006, 06:25 PM
Yea that finger test left a blister on me the last time i tried that with a MOSFET haha, i donmt think ill do that again, i was thinking about using this for my RC car project... so the big motor might be somwhat continuous but the little mtor is for steering.

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PJ Allen
08-27-2006, 08:45 PM
· Well, y'know... you're supposed to go at it trepidatiously at first, to get a sense of how hot it might be.· If the heat-sink is hot, the plastic body of the device is getting up there, too.· Over-heating and hot components also give off a certain smell (smell that?· yeah, it's hot stuff.)· Electronics requires all of your senses, except for taste (please, don't put your tongue on anything, not good), as well as common sense.

· You don't see the light till you feel the heat.

· I'm seeing a boo-boo face emoticon in your future.

Loopy Byteloose
08-27-2006, 09:18 PM
One should at least allow room for attaching a heat sink after assembly.
While you see a lot of boards with devices that might need a heat sink, they are often omitted due to the added cost.

With something that your are going to experiment with, having the ablity to pop it in at a later date is quite important.
Hobbyist always discover something and change their minds.

Regarding 'I never soldered anything'....
Google is your friend. There are tutorials.

Good electrical connections are extremely important to having electronics operated properly.
Consider that learning to solder is very necessary.

It really isn't that hard, but it never hurts to practise on something cheap and expendible.
Nuts and Voltage has lots of small board projects that one might begin with.
I suppose Radio Shack has something too [I haven't seen a Radio Shack for 12 years now, so it is a bit hard for me to know].

My biggest problem with soldering is that I forget that this gets hot.
So, I end up with burnt fingers from trying to do things without tools.

Also, having a good surface [a piece of glass or a large ceramic tile [12"x12"] will protect your table top.
Formica will become scared, wood will too.

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"If you want more fiber, eat the package.· Not enough?· Eat the manual."········


···················· Tropical regards,····· G. Herzog [·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan