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View Full Version : Unsolved Dissolving Enamel from Magnet Wire?



xanatos
12-15-2011, 09:46 PM
I have a project that requires as many as 60 custom-wound electromagnets each time. The construction and winding is a breeze... the thing that is a HUGE PITA? Scraping the enamel off of the magnet wires with an exacto knife to make the connections!

Does anyone have a preferred method / product for dissolving enamel from magnet wire? Acetone and toluene don't touch it.

Thanks for your ideas,

Dave

doggiedoc
12-15-2011, 09:49 PM
I usually burn it off, then polish with scotch brite pad.

xanatos
12-15-2011, 10:02 PM
That's an option, but I have to be careful there as well - I'm using 26 gauge wire. I might cook the wire with even a cigarette lighter.

I think in this case I'm looking more for a "process solution" where I can just dip & wipe. There's 60 of them... that's 120 wires.

Thanks,

Dave

Bobb Fwed
12-15-2011, 10:11 PM
I too have wondered if there is a tried and true or "professional" method to stripping magnet wire. In the past I used the burn and polish method. I think I did it on 26 or 28 gauge wire, and it worked fine.

ctwardell
12-15-2011, 10:13 PM
Guessing it isn't cheap...

http://www.spectrumtech.com/product-groups/magnet-wire-stripping

This might be more reasonable...

http://www.eraser.com/catalog.cgi?mode=details&product_id=1442

C.W.

Publison
12-15-2011, 10:21 PM
Lighter and steel wool has worked well for 20+ years. (We used a Zippo back then :) )

WBA Consulting
12-15-2011, 10:32 PM
Heat and abrasion are the magic that remove the enamel. Some tools take advantage of both, such as the Eraser RT2S "Magnet Wire Stripper" (http://www.eraser.com/catalog.cgi?mode=details&product_id=1442). One of the most common solutions is just heat, in the form of a solder pot. Flux the enamel coated wire and dip into a pot. It removes the enamel and tins the wire. However, it creates a lot of dross in the pot obviously. I have heard of people dipping the ends in paint thinner, letting it sit for a moment, then lighting it with a match. Not very safe or OSHA friendly, but I have heard of success with that method.

davejames
12-15-2011, 11:05 PM
...regular old JASCO paint stripper?

That stuff ate just about anything IIRC.

$WMc%
12-15-2011, 11:28 PM
DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid works too.
'
If you have ever spilled some on your fender or gas tank...You'll know what I mean.
'
The brake fluid doesn't smell near as bad as the paint stripper and an 8oz. bottle should last for years.Its cheap too!
'
I know it sounds weird, But it works

Leon
12-15-2011, 11:38 PM
I use self-fluxing wire.

PJ Allen
12-16-2011, 02:10 AM
I use the rotary bristle brush attachment for my Dremel.
I got the idea at the one company I worked where they wound their own magnetics (no chemicals.) Their "stripping machine" was like a grinding wheel but outfit with large bristle brushes instead.

(Jasco, brake fluid, MEK, that's toxic stuff.)

xanatos
12-16-2011, 02:17 AM
These are some cool ideas, at least I can have some fun trying a few to see what works the fastest and most efficiently.

Thanks... any more?

Dave

Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)
12-16-2011, 04:05 AM
PJ,

The rotary bristle brush method intrigues me. Can you elaborate on your technique? Do you use the "disc" shaped brush, or the "cone" shaped brush? How do you immobilize the end of the wire while you're stripping it?

Thanks,
-Phil

davejames
12-16-2011, 04:19 AM
(Jasco, brake fluid, MEK, that's toxic stuff.)

...and your point is???

:smile:

doggiedoc
12-16-2011, 04:20 AM
Perhaps, Phil, with two disc shaped brushes on two Dremels positioned to counter rotate one could carefully feed the enameled wire into the "input" side of the counter rotating bristles and strip them that way. How steady are your hands?

Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi)
12-16-2011, 04:56 AM
I tried it with one brush but couldn't keep the wire end in the path of the rotating bristles; it kept getting knocked away. So I'm wondering if some sort of groove to confine it is the way to go.


How steady are your hands?
Steady enough to place 0603 resistors on a PCB, but not steady enough to perform surgery on someone's pet ferret. :)

-Phil

Loopy Byteloose
12-16-2011, 06:20 AM
220 grit or finer (maybe 440) sandpaper - the kind that is used for wet sanding as well as dry.

The primary reason for using wet process sandpaper is that the stuff can be stored forever in a high humidity environment (like where I live) while the other stuff falls apart after a year or so.

Actually emery cloth is also good, but a bit more expensive.

I suppose that JASCO paint stripper will work, but that stuff is nasty with lots of chlorinated hydrocarbons. It eats through rubber gloves and other protective barriers and should only be used outdoors.

You don't really need to use power tools, do you?

xanatos
12-23-2011, 12:14 PM
Oddly enough no one around my area carries Jasco, but I have discovered that Emory Cloth does the trick about twice as fast as the exacto blade scrape method, so for now that'll work. I just pinch the wire in between a small folded strip of the stuff and pull. Only takes four to six repetitions per wire end. Apparently my hope for a dip & wipe solution to remove enamel would probably involve acids that would also eat my hand... so Emory Cloth wins for now. I'll revisit this thread if I make any useful discoveries.

Thanks!

Dave

Loopy Byteloose
12-23-2011, 01:05 PM
I've been trying to buy Jasco in Taiwan for 18 years with no luck. It is great for rejuvenating paint brushes. And believe it or not, most of my paint brushes are over 25 years old. But I can't think of a more toxic goo that one can come up against. Just being near the stuff makes your skin crawl.