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nisbus
03-18-2009, 04:44 AM
I just got my Propeller starter kit and had was gleaming with joy as I read through the brochures and opened the box.
I couldn't wait to get this thing hooked up to my PC and start spinning.

Wait, it has a USB cable and a power plug but no power supply NOOOO!!!

Batteries not included :(

As I live in Iceland I can expect to wait for another 2-4 weeks to start using my starter kit.

Until then I'll just have to read the book and dream of the applications I'm gonna write with my propeller chip.

This is a reminder to RTFM.

MagIO2
03-18-2009, 05:09 AM
Did you order it at Parallax? They state that it would be a good idea to order the power supply ;o)

But for the beginning it should be possible to run the board without batteries or power supply. There should be a voltage regulator available, as the propeller itself runs with 3,3V but the power supply to be attached is a 7,5V type. So it should be possible to connect the power supply connector (or the voltage regulator) with the 5V comeing from the USB-Port. Good enough to light some LEDs. But don't attach to much other devices as a USB port can only drive 500mA.
I used so many 'shoulds' because I don't have a Starter Kit. I simply ordered the chip and put it on a breadboard.·I bought a USB to USART converter and a 3.3V dropdown regulator and I use the USB power to run the Prop. Works fine!

Have fun with your prop.

Post Edited (MagIO2) : 3/17/2009 10:15:39 PM GMT

Mike Green
03-18-2009, 05:46 AM
You can also use a battery pack with 4 cells in series. 4 alkaline AA cells works nicely. If you use NiMH rechargable cells, I recommend using 5 or 6 to get 6-7.2V. The 5V regulator on the input of the Demo Board is very happy with 5.5 to 6V input, but 6-7.5V is better because you get better battery life (as the cells discharge and their output voltage drops).

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 05:48 AM
you can easily use a 12v car battery, 6v block batery 4 to 8 AA bateries in serires to run the protoboard. You don't need to wait just find a battery box or hop down to the hardware store and buy one of those massive 6v batteries. you can easily rap wires around the terminals on those things and solder it on.

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 05:49 AM
also odds are you have a similar wall adapter in your home. I found 3x 12v types in ten minutes of looking. The regulators on board will easily take 12V but the higher the voltage the hotter they get.

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

heater
03-18-2009, 03:45 PM
Using a car battery is a good way to start a fire when you accidentally short something out. If you do be sure to use a fuse (1 amp say) and that everything on the battery side of the fuse is well insulated.

You must have a spare wall wart somewhere. If not go to your nearest hotel and scrounge one from the box of adapters guests have left behind. Most hotels are full of them.

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For me, the past is not over yet.

nisbus
03-18-2009, 08:19 PM
Hi all,

Thanks for the info.

I'm completely new to electronics on this level and am just a programmer interested in the hardware part of my work.
I don't even have a clear understanding of the difference between amps and volts :) so hauling a car battery into my living room or coiling batteries sound like insurmountable obstacles to me.

As I understand it I should be able to plug this into the usb port of my PC and turn it on?

The box says they recommend a 7.5 v 1amp power supply and that I don't have.
I'm too nervous of taking some power adapter that has different voltage or amp measurements and plugging it into my new board.
I'd hate to ruin the board before I even turn it on :).

The surprising thing is that my invoice says that the package includes a power supply.

Lastly, yes I bought my started kit straight from Parallax (using this site) and I just didn't notice the text saying (adapter sold separately).

I'll try the USB port when I get home (I don't have anything to plug into it so that shouldn't be a problem) I just want to start programming this thing :)

Thanks,
nisbus

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 08:32 PM
Ohms Law one of the most important in electronics.
E=I*R

E=Voltage
I=Current
R=Resistance


Higher voltage and current are ok as long as within tolerances of the voltage regulator(7805 if I am not mistaken http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7805.pdf)

No problem to lay it safe though.

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

JRod1
03-18-2009, 09:23 PM
mctrivia said...
also odds are you have a similar wall adapter in your home. I found 3x 12v types in ten minutes of looking. The regulators on board will easily take 12V but the higher the voltage the hotter they get.


If you use a wall adapter that's kicking around your house, be sure to check the polarity of the plug!

MagIO2
03-18-2009, 09:26 PM
You really have E for voltage in Canada? Thought this is the same worldwide.

In germany we have U for the voltage.

And in germany the current is drawn by the circuit that's attached to the power supply. So, if the circuit only needs 5V 100mA then it only draws 100mA even if the power supply could source 1A ;o)
That's why in fact the current statement on the power supply can be lots higher. The voltage can be higher in a certain range which is given by the voltage regulator used.

Can't someone make a photo of the Starter Kit and mark the pins that he has to connect (+5V from USB with the voltage regulator U in pin?). I don't have this board otherwise I'd do it myself. Don't you see that this poor guy is suffering?

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 09:36 PM
power draw is from the device. rating on the supply is max it can provide. that is why a car battery capable of 1000 amps is ok as long as you don't short it out.

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 09:37 PM
e for electro motive force.
v for volts

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

FearTurtles
03-18-2009, 09:45 PM
Take 4 AA batteries and tape them together so that the + side is touching the - side of each battery. Then tape an adapter plug to the batteries that fit the demo board. To find this plug you can sacrifice any wal-wart that has an end which fits. Just cut the wire leading to the plug leaving enough of a tail to connect to the battery with ease. About 60 cm should do. When connecting the wires to the battery you will need to make sure that outer contact of the plug is connected to the - side of your battery pack. In most cases one of the two wires will be all black while the other has a white stripe. Connect the all black to the -. It is a good idea to check with a continuity tester or a ohm meter to make sure the right wire is connected. You will fine that most 12v power supplies have the same plug as what you would need. So even if the wal-wart is 300ma the plug will still work. When taping the wires to the batteries use electrical tape stretching the tape to about 1/2 its width and make several layers. This will give the tape a rubber band effect helping to hold the wires firmly in place. The more layiers the tighter the hold. You can uses C and D size batteries as well. Hope this helps.

Oldbitcollector (Jeff)
03-18-2009, 09:52 PM
If you can find a 6v to 9v DC adapter that you already have for something which fits,
look carefully at the raised print or label on the power supply. If it has voltage
output of anything between 6v-9v DC (the graphic used to indicate DC looks like this:
-----------
-- -- -- --

Then look for the "center positive graphic. It looks like the picture attached.
If you've got these covered with another adapter, and it fits you are in business.

OBC

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New to the Propeller?

Check out: Protoboard Introduction (http://jeffledger.googlepages.com/Protoboard_Introduction.pdf) , Propeller Cookbook 1.4 (http://ucontroller.com/Propeller%20Protoboard%20Designs%20for%20the%20Beg inner.pdf) & Software Index (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=770318)
Updates to the Cookbook are now posted to: Propeller.warrantyvoid.us (http://propeller.warrantyvoid.us)
Got an SD card connected? - PropDOS (http://www.orrtech.net/propdos/)

Post Edited (Oldbitcollector) : 3/18/2009 6:07:07 PM GMT

mctrivia
03-18-2009, 10:05 PM
9 to 12 works also but make sure to occasionally check how hot the regulators are at 12v 200ma she will burn you and be near failure temp

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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod (http://propmodule.com) has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.

Cluso99
03-18-2009, 10:40 PM
I am going to have to but in here. There is so much wrong advice. Do NOT connect a car battery with this type of board - it is just too dangerous with exposed pins!

Since you do not know much about electronics, go to your local electronics store and ask for a wall wart, plug pack or whatever you call them in Iceland. They are just power adapters that plug into the wall power socket and run small electronic devices such as phones, etc. Ask for a 6-9V power pack with 200mA to 1A centre positive with a 2.1mm connector. Take the board with you so you can check the connector fits.

You can use batteries but since you don't know anything about electronics give this a miss for now. You probably do not have a soldering iron to connect the plug anyway.

This should get you started and read OldBitCollectors book and the Propeller Manual. Anything you don't understand, just ask. Mostly you get great advice on this thread.

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Links to other interesting threads:

· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=786418), SixBladeProp (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=780033), website (Multiple propeller pcbs) (http://bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index) (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=753439)
· Emulators (Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100) - index (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=778427)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google) (http://search.parallax.com/search?site=parallax&client=parallax&output=xml_no_dtd&proxystylesheet=parallax&proxycustom=<HOME/>&ie=&oe=&lr=)

My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz (http://www.bluemagic.biz)·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm (http://www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm)

Post Edited (Cluso99) : 3/18/2009 3:46:25 PM GMT

nisbus
03-19-2009, 04:15 AM
Thanks all for your input, I went to my local electronics store and bought an adapter that works and I've successfully gotten this to work :)

Now I just need to read the manual and start coding.

nisbus

Cluso99
03-19-2009, 10:16 AM
Excellent - you will enjoy your propeller board. If you dont understand anything, just ask this fabulous forum. And use the search function (its a special google one done by parallax I believe) in my signature below. There is so much information on this forum, that it can be hard to find.

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Links to other interesting threads:

· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=786418), SixBladeProp (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=780033), website (Multiple propeller pcbs) (http://bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index) (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=753439)
· Emulators (Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100) - index (http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=778427)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google) (http://search.parallax.com/search?site=parallax&client=parallax&output=xml_no_dtd&proxystylesheet=parallax&proxycustom=<HOME/>&ie=&oe=&lr=)

My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz (http://www.bluemagic.biz)·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm (http://www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm)